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Thread: 360 - mini hypnodisc

  1. #791
    Designed a new front plate for the motor which keys into the motor can and acts as a mounting also, its held on with 6 bolts now as aposed to 3, ive also knocked out the shaft and made a larger diamater one which ill finnish of soon...

    The front plate also has holes for the new M8 as aposed to the original M5 mounting holes, so i can tighten it right up;



    next step is to put a keyway on it, and assemble it fully- theres no rotor internally in this picture... then ill be putting a support bearing in the bulkhead of 720 and mounting a new pulley to the shaft... i cant see this new assembly falling apart.

    Old shaft next to it for referance... Thanks to Dennis for machining the aluminium.

  2. #792
    What does the faceplate mount onto in the can? Just wondering how you managed to double the amount of bolts from 3 to 6. Or was there enough 'meat' in there for you to just tap out 3 more?

    Looks good though! Are you going to support the rear of the motor also?

  3. #793
    With that amount of support there will be little need to mount the motor rear. Nice looking bit of ali that

    It seems that in the more extreme cases all brushless could do with a bit of work to make em more robust.

  4. #794
    I would happily pay to have that mod done to the brushless that is going in Conker 3, cos then I would be almost certain that it would never break! Still cant choose between the Sensored Inrunner or the standard Outrunner...

    Which would you have?

    http://teamnovak.com/shop/index.php?...roducts_id=459

    OR

    http://www.scorpionsystem.com/catalo...5/HK-4035-800/

    Both would do the same top speed and the sensored element should allow the in-runner to match the spin up time of the out-runner despite it having less torque.

  5. #795
    PJ- theres not much point in supporting the back, as theres no shock going through it, the 6 bolts on the front are only to stop the can falling of through vibration now really... as the shaft will be supported on both sides, all the force just goes into the bearings...having said that i might be putting an armour mounting plate in that kind of area anyhow so i might kill 2 birds with one stone just to stop the motor ever being able to fall apart even if all the bolts should fall out.

    Alex- id probably go with the scorpion just because its a good motor out of the box.... and just because a motors an in runner... doesnt mean the spinup time will be pants... look at 720/galactus for examples of that.

    If your going to the trouble of getting your bulkheads machined from alu like you showed me before- id suggest making your mounting for the motor the same as the one i made for 360 ages ago... so it supports the entire front cap of the motor, with its own bearing.

  6. #796
    Quote Originally Posted by Mouldy View Post
    Alex- id probably go with the scorpion just because its a good motor out of the box.... and just because a motors an in runner... doesnt mean the spinup time will be pants... look at 720/galactus for examples of that.

    If your going to the trouble of getting your bulkheads machined from alu like you showed me before- id suggest making your mounting for the motor the same as the one i made for 360 ages ago... so it supports the entire front cap of the motor, with its own bearing.
    I knew it wasn't going to be pants but I get your meaning. I am intending to have them done out of Al, though I am having support issues at them moment. The 2mm Ti 2 base doesn't seem to be thick enough to stop what is mounted to it from twisting. I will get some images up after the hand in on Thursday. [Might have to go thicker or pay out for grade 5/6 Ti]
    Do you have any shots of the mount on 360, just so I know what I am aiming for?

  7. #797
    http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/thre...pnodisc/page19

    push the shaft out and put a larger dia one in, pretty easy to do theres probably online guides on how to do it.

  8. #798
    Found a few tutorials which explain it but lacking on tools. The shaft on yours was only 6mm wasn't it? The Hk-4035-800 can have an 8mm shaft. If I support it in the same way as you did on 360 then it should be fine. Might work out a way of supporting both ends.

    Edit: Also cos of the way a Brushless is assembled, I don't think you can widen the shaft very much. It might be better to just give it good support.
    Last edited by Eventorizon; 30th April 2013 at 15:03.

  9. #799
    Been ages since I put anything on here...

    Started to machine a complete new drum out of a solid 3inch grade 5 titanium bar and started to machine new teeth for it too from Hardox 500... Both take ages to machine... And I don't have much time spare at the moment due to just buying a house... But when I get chance ill stick a picture up of the progress... The main advantage of the titanium will be more energy in the weapon... And the Hardox teeth should stay sharper for longer. I was only running soft stainless steel teeth at the champs

    The new motor end cap/mount combo with larger supporting bearings has been finnished... Thanks again to ed Wallace for doing a bit of the machining at work... As it had to be mega accurate...



    Kinda hard to see how much works gone into it from the picture... But this coupled with the new drum should give 720 even more reliability and 37% more energy in the drum for next year (not that it needs it lol)

  10. #800
    Not doing things by halves then eh?

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