Graupner motors

[harry hills]

do it propperly, then you can recycle parts.
no, you can't use drill electronics for anything other than paperweights tbh

[Anttazz]

can i use servos to move the switches on the drills instead of escs?

Not really advised as it won't failsafe. Even using an external pair of switches and servo the way Rover does doesn't failsafe. ESCs can be purchased very cheaply anyway and you can always just transfer it to your other robot when you build it if you buy a good one.

[archie2000]

the £15 ones.from eBay might do right.
my mum will let me get that roboteq esc for sale if i build a fw corkscrew replica because she liked it

[typhoon_driver]

You mean vantec, not roboteq. Very different speed controllers.

Don't bother. That vantec is not suitable for a featherweight as it's oversized and relatively heavy. That's why it was in a heavyweight.

Scrap the stupid ideas about crazy pushers and build a bloody simple rammer

[Laser]

if only there was a like button on this forum.....

I'm backing will, gary and michael up on this one.

Stop blubbering on about a super robot, and be sensible look through some old threads and build a little rammer!!

[razerdave]

Archie:
As someone who has built a powerful rambot, there is a lot to learn in the process for that kind of robot alone. I started with a drill powered rambot, then when I went for a more powerful set up, I had a lot of knowledge from the previous one, but even so, I have had to replace every bit of Satanix between 2009 and now except the chassis.

Its best to learn what works and what doesn't through experience. The simpler the robot, the less to go wrong.

[Ellis]

I 100% agree that a simple machine should be built as a first project. But, the impression seems to be that a 4WD drill powered or Gimson powered robot is nothing especially good or powerful. This is absolutely untrue. 4 over-volted drills and you're flying.

12v drills (cheapest on the market) at 18v, wire that can handle the current, batteries that can supply the current (crucial), and of course ESCs that can handle the current, and you'll have a FW with a very real power advantage over many other machines. Design it well and get some driving practice in, and you'll have all the push you'd ever want from a first robot. Don't think you'll be a pushover (lol) if you opt for drills or Gimsons. Blowing our own trumpet a little, I'd say Tormenta had more drive power than most, or certainly many, of the robots at the 2012 champs.

I am glad that you are seeing a more realistic side to this! Hey, we all went there, I recall wanting Ampflow A28-150s for my first feather.

[Anttazz]

Jamie just posted a link to my 4WD Argos drill powered FW and its pretty nippy. Its no world beater but its good enough to start off with and its nice and simple. Most importantly, if a motor blows, its less than £15 for a whole new unit. Gimson motors didn't exist when we built that one but they're definitely a strong contender for both beginner and advanced robots now. Just use good quality parts as Ellis said, good batteries and good speed controller and it'll be a good robot, and if you decide you want to do something else, those components are transferrable. Better to spend a bit more now than to spend a cumulatively high amount over the course of the robots life.

[archie2000]

ok it was Dave's advice i really needed.
i will get the cheapest stuff possible and learn from that

[archie2000]

ok i have acepted the fact i would need to start simple (then give the robot to my brother)
but i still have a few questions.
Should I try and buy that vanteq/roboteq (sorry i forgot which one) of john from RR?
because they weigh 1.1kg would they be anygood with no/lighter heatsink?
my only real concern for my cheap robot would be speed control,
I suppose i could try a bang bang servo board (i think they're called that)
Because if i waste too much money on it my powerful rammer will be rubbish (but will work better i suppose)
could one be built with unused radio gear for <£50? if i use drill motors, batteries, gearbox and charger
i know clearly i should build a cheap one but i cant get that expensive one out of my head.I have a not to scale CAD but i have had to think about the price. so for drive i will use 4/8 of the banebots 2.7/8 inch wheels 0.8inch wide 40 shore $4.50 each. motors are quite likley to be rs-775s and i will probarbly go for 4 of them on 6/7 cell lipo $18.50 (i think) each. for my gears they will be mod 1.5 using 12t and 40t and 30t gears so a 12t on my motor to a 40t to 12t to 40t to 12t to 30t on my wheel. thats a good £30-£40 of gears i am more than happy to pay if they work. then my £100 speedo and some batteries
£300 ish