Yeh, it's an older ceramic 2 pin wit the copper pins Joined by 16 AWG cable - is this a no go?
Yeh, it's an older ceramic 2 pin wit the copper pins Joined by 16 AWG cable - is this a no go?
2 copper pins joined by 16 AWG inside ceramic seems more robust and heatproof than an XT60 or EC5 or 8. The build rules just say ratings need to be adhered to but this has no rating on it, is it a case of testing it and if it doesn't melt I can use it?
Is it just a household plug going into a household socket, like this?
If so, it will work perfectly fine in terms of making and breaking the circuit, but it will pop out far more easily than a Deans, XT-60, EC5/8 or Anderson connector. We used ours in a featherweight (non-combat) and just getting bumped from other feathers was enough to dislodge it.
Have come up with this, rather than using the standard bolt-in fuse holder I made a fuse clip which I will mount in a recess, basically it's a giant version of a blade fuse used in cars so now the fuse doubles as a kill switch.
IMAG0063.jpg
Have come up with this, rather than using the standard bolt-in fuse holder I made a fuse clip which I will mount in a recess, basically it's a giant version of a blade fuse used in cars so now the fuse doubles as a kill switch.<br><img class="previewthumb" id="vbattach_6313" alt="" src="http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=6313&stc=1" attachmentid="6313">
Never fails to amaze me how roboteers can take something so simple and make it complex as hell. For reference the LED thread is a good 1000 posts or so long when those first came in the rule book.
The led thread was initially not about power led though, but on failsafe led as it was written into the ruleset.
Fair point but it's half the fun. Ended up with this in the recess:
IMAG0065.jpgIMAG0066.jpg
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