I'd recommend nylon for a cheap chassis material and HDPE for armour. I've used pretty much everything going atm from steel, to ali to HDPE to nylon and titanium. There's no one solution fits all. You have to juggle cost and application.
could u have hdpe and metal panels on the outside like aluminum :wink:
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=hdpe ... 86.c0.m359
would any of these work?
With regards to armour most people design their robots to to have armour that is too strong for the punishment they are likely to get, except for me that is! Most of the time there are no spinners in the arena so the major source of damage is removed from the scene.
Seraph for instance came second in the annihilator competition, (first last year) and the armour on it is between 3mm and 6mm HDPE, the armour is the chassis. The wheels that take quite a bashing are 8mm HDPE too.
Most of the armour failure is down to the way the armour is fitted too the robot, I never use self tapping or wood screws for this job as they tend to work loose or just break, again Seraph has the armour fitted with only 4mm studding and has yet to have a panel knocked off.
Most failures are due to component faults or wiring problems Shock proof everything, clamp things down so they will not get knocked about, the question to ask is, can my robot be dropped from 2 meters on to a wooden floor and still work? That's what the floor flipper dose, If the answer is yes you will probably have a robot that can stand the 3 minuets the fight lasts.
more photos
new connectors
how the scoop should look
prototype stuff
random
soon to post more bye!
thanks for the replys guys but for my removable link dose it have to be a certin type?
There is no set rule as the brand or design that a removable has to be. It has to kill all power to the robot when removed. However there are a number that have become somewhat of a standard.
The two that jump to mind are anderson connectors (the small 30amp ones) and deans connectors. Solding a loop of wire across the terminals of the male connector and have the female connector solded into the connection to your batteries is the easiest method.
Nice Rc car
the parts that i need to be cut have been measured and have been sent off to my uncle who will cut them out for me (because i cba to do them my self with a saw and he has a band saw so...) anyway they will be done soon (next time i see my uncle) so stay tuned!
sorry for the late delay but here is the chassis the paper represents steel or aluminium soooo
gunna get the metal a screw it all together any ideas for metal for the scoop and top and bottom?
oh and my rc mouse for my kittens
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