terminal blocks

**mattsdragons** · 24th April 2011, 15:57

do you think a 30a 12 way terminal block would be enough for a feather? i want it high so that the fuses should blow before the blocks.

or are they even usable for feathers? if so, would i still need to insulate all the wires?

i though about it so it just keep everything tidy inside and i will have some weight spare to fit one it

**typhoon_driver** · 24th April 2011, 16:19

you need to work it out for yourself. Work out how many positive and negative connections you will need and buy a terminal block of a suitable size if you want to go down that route. In answer to your 30A question, it should be fine if you are running drill motors, anything heavier may require something a bit beefier

**mattsdragons** · 24th April 2011, 16:23

im mainly curious if people have used them and are they reliable mainly

**psychostorm** · 24th April 2011, 18:24

Originally Posted by mattsdragons

im mainly curious if people have used them and are they reliable mainly

Kaizer came to me with 15a connectors and as yet failed to melt any of them.

I had a reliability concern which was for the link. A deans link was wired into a screwed down 2 hole terminal. No matter how hard I tightened the wire in, it fell out on the first hit. The loose speed control terminals never gave me that trouble.

**craig_colliass** · 24th April 2011, 19:21

Tron (old one) had them they were fine. but you will have to get in the habit of checking the screws are tight as they work loose in time.
These days I tend to splice the wire and solder a lead directly off that, and insulate with shrink wrap It is a permanent and maintenance free method.
In something like Seraph with all that banging around things shaking loose will detract from it's reliability in the arena. Hope that helps

**typhoon_driver** · 24th April 2011, 19:58

in the latest incarnation of boner i took some roughly 5mm by 5mm by 50mm pieces of copper, coated them in solder and then soldered all my wires to those (one positive, one negative), put it all inside a plastic case, no problem handling the current, just a bit of a bugger if i have to swap anything in or out.

**craig_colliass** · 24th April 2011, 20:05

You could use two brass bolts separated on an insulated board (one positive and one negative) and for the wires crimp connectors with the ring profile, to fit over them a nut with a spring washer to finish the job

It is similar to what I have always used on the Saint and Cherub. never failed...........................yet