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Thread: Cicatrix Build Diary

  1. #301
    I had that thread in mind when making my last post, but even though I replied in it, I couldn't remember where to find it (not that I looked much).
    That solution seems pretty robust. Alternatives would probably involve some sort of machined custom hub that was drilled and pinned through the shaft, with the wheel then being fixed to the hub.

  2. #302
    Hi Tony, I've got some 12mm bore hubs that might be just what you need, they won't be going on the website for a couple more weeks but I'll add two to your order free of charge for dispatch tomorrow.

  3. #303
    Seeing as I'll be meeting him at the weekend and could pick stuff up, feel free to add an 18V GLA-S 100mm stroke actuator to his order free of charge too Ewan

  4. #304
    Hey whilst you're at it Ewan I'm looking to get my hands on two actuators of that kind too so if by any chance you happened to throw those into the deal also free of charge that would be really really good.

    Thanks Ewan you're the best!

  5. #305
    Nice try guys!

  6. #306
    You're a gentleman Ewan, thats awesome Any chance you could post/PM, if you're keeping them under wraps, me some dimensions of them so I can get some appropriate wheels ordered ready for my build week in a few weeks time?

  7. #307
    Spend the day working out a plan for 2 weeks time. Hoping to attend Barnsley with some Feathers and also have an event in March with Scot-Bots so i've a week plus the odd day to get them going for those.

    Only a small amount of work needed for Rover and Jr.

    Rover: Not really too suitable for the Scot-Bot events with the bang-bang speed control style the way it is and the batteries were from a drill so didn't last too long. After about 90s-2mins it would go into a death spin and be totally uncontrollable. So i've a set of ESC's, either 85A BotBitz ones or an XXL to put in there and change the batteries from 16.8v and roughly 100mAh to 14.4v 3700mAh.

    Eric Jr: Have changed from 3700mAh 14.4v to 3700mAh 12v, pretty much because I have a lot of 12v batteries and not a lot of 14.4v and Rover needed a bit more speed to make it interesting. Also easier for Rover to drive around for longer more safely. Also needs some sort of electrical gremlin sorting out whereby each contact with anything makes the robot die, but there is still power and the robot works when the link is removed and replaced. I'm just going to tighten each connection and hope that helps. Any other suggestions?

    Cicatrix: WIll maybe get the lifters set up that I have...maybe.

    And then to Eric Jr2 which gets a post of its own....

  8. #308
    Eric Jr2:

    Drive: 2 x 24v Gimson GR02's
    ESC: XXL or BotBitz 85A (will test both, depending on my judgement of their performance)
    Battery: 24v 3700mAh NiMH
    Weapon: FP Pneumatic flipper
    Radio: Spektrum DX5e with either Spektrum or Orange rx

    Have ordered a load of parts that'll hopefully be here for a build day. Will debut at Barnsley if all goes well.

    So far:


  9. #309
    Nice that you got hold of old Rip Evo, always was a good robot. Personally I would recommend the BotBitz ESCs over the XXL, they seem to be preferred by many people.
    Can't wait to see how it turns out, Tony!

  10. #310
    Max's Avatar
    Member

    The problem could be the link itself ? I have used a tamiya connector as a link before and if the robot jolted it cut out.

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