following the uks draw giving me a refreshed interest in my spinner, tonight ive got it mostly wired up and driving about using a scropian xl. 18v drills are surprisingly nippy on only a 8.4 volt nimh pack. After i get payed next week ill be buying a pair of lipos and a charger etc etc - it'll run off 1 single 22 volt pack but thought itd be nice to have a spare
did a bit this morning, speedo mounted - when i bolt it down with m3's, link made and led mounted with a place for the reciever to sit.
pics
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things going well so far surprisingly
link holder seems really good and tight so jobs a gooden
getting a motor holder made for me at work next week too so more pics to follow...
and a pic of it from the front, the triangle bits of hardox are only really tacked on so don't judge!
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next major steps are getting the beater cut out which is being sorted by dave, and getting bearings put into the bulkheads- again something ill get done at work asap.
lipos gonna sit behind the motor aswell so space is gonna be tight but should make for a solid little robot hopefully.
all of thats about 7kg there, 3.5kg beater makes it 10.5kg, then throw in lipos and the top lid etc so it should be do-able, ill add more hardox to it if the weight allows.
interesting - is that one of those 24V kids scooter motors for the spinner drive?
Wondering how beefy they are in comparison to say a Speed 900
I think the specs of that motor will be exceptionally similar to those of a speed 900, identical even :wink: . It even has the Speed 900 sticker written on it....
thats a speed 900
thats handy then
Looking good so far
Awww, I wanted to see if he got it from what I said
Really, you don't say
It's coming on well Calum, although I think you've out-done me in terms of how tight things are inside
Are you still going for friction-drive wheels for when inverted?
Also, it's entirely optional, but it may be worth de-soldering the little green terminal blocks from the XL and soldering the power wires direct to the board. A few people have noted them being prone to breaking off from shock impacts, which could cost you a battle and some valuable points. If you work out what direction your motors turn when you press forward etc, you can solder direct from the XL to the motor terminals and remove another potential area of failure.
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