elobire's build thread

[RogueTwoRobots]

That second video is very impressive Ayrton.
Is the handle being wider at one end the reason for the squint sprocket? If so, try putting a spacer (a couple of washers or a piece of material with a suitably sized hole in it) between the sprocket and the narrower part of the handle to fill up the space. This should make your sprocket straighter and hopefully reduce the chance of the chain jamming and/or coming off.

[widow_twanky]

I'd suggest you try taking some links out of that chain before anything else. It seems to 'droop' when it's sat in place. Fine for bikes but all the chains we have (hydras and SMIDSY's drive) have chain tensioners and guides.

A chain tensioner is either an idler sprocket which you fix onto an adjustable arm to push the chain tight or you can use a piece of HDPE/nylon 6 bolted to an angle where you can move the HDPE up and down.

The chain doesn't need to be mega tight but does need to avoid the amount of slack you can see in the video whilst it operates.

Guides on the sprocket may also help. Nothing special but you can cut a piece of 3mm ali and bolt it to the sprocket on a spacer which will help the chain 'feed' onto it.

[Metal Demons]

Your chain is way, way too loose!

[rallikas]

You can try a spring loaded chain tensioner. Im using this kind of setup in my buggy, and its the best choice, in my opinion.


Something like this:

[elobire]

i think it is the handle making the procket out of place, but i cant seem to get it go straight if i add washers to it. going to take a better look at it tommorow.

also whats the best way to remove links from a chain?

[daliad100]

A chain breaker and master link (?) to push out the pins and then reattach it.

I would still go with a tensioner because it's easier and probably faster to adjust tension.

Edit: if there are two bolts connecting the handle and sprocket, try different amounts of washers on each or cut some stand offs from some tube that can fit over the bolt flat at one the sprocket end and handle shaped at the other.

[elobire]

A chain breaker and master link (?) to push out the pins and then reattach it.

I would still go with a tensioner because it's easier and probably faster to adjust tension.

Edit: if there are two bolts connecting the handle and sprocket, try different amounts of washers on each or cut some stand offs from some tube that can fit over the bolt flat at one the sprocket end and handle shaped at the other.

thanks,
the problem with a tensioner might be that the chain seems to be tighter at certian points because of the sprocket. i think il sort it out and see what its like.

[RogueTwoRobots]

If the chain is tight at some points and loose at others, it sounds like your sprocket is not concentric. In other words, the hole in the middle of the sprocket that the shaft goes through is off-centre. The best solution without re-making/re-drilling/re-whatever the sprocket would be the spring-loaded tensioner idea mentioned above. That way, the tensioner can move to take into account a variation between slackness and tightness while still keeping the chain tensioned.

[elobire]

i will probably fit a sprung chain tensioner to stop the chain coming off.

also i doubt i will get much work done within the next 2 weeks or so because iv started sixth form and its going to be caotic for a while.
oh and i sent my receiver/transmitter away for repairs and i havnt even received an email from them yet, odd perhaps they will repair it before emailing me

[elobire]

little update.
i just got the reciever back, it workes perfically.

also the one wheel seems to be wobbling, going to take it off and see if its the motor or the wheel.