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Thread: Starting Point

  1. #151
    Looks like a nice start to a build.
    If you ask Kane nicely, I'm sure he'll happily move this to another section of the forum. Or better yet, don't hesitate to start up a build thread for it, that way you could keep all these pages of research seperate from the building of your machine.

    For an axe, I've seen a couple in B&Q that are quite similar to what Avenger uses. They have a fibreglass handle too so won't risk splitting as mentioned in the electric axe guide page. They may be a bit short though, depending on the design of your robot body.
    Alternatively, you could make your own, maybe with a bit of steel box section as an arm and a shaped piece of Hardox or something to make the axe head.

    Actually just remembered seeing something a while back that I thought would make a good robot axe. Ice axes used in climbing. They had a funky shape to them and the handle was metal (with some plastic coating over it) so would be sturdy enough bolt to. Their strength in general should be good as they have to support people dangling from them. I think they can be quite expensive though.

    I may be about to contradict myself here actually. Found a pic of what I was thinking of:
    http://gearflogger.typepad.com/photos/u ... sanano.jpg

    Not sure how well the axe head/attachment would hold up. Might be fine for axe hits, but copping a blow from a horizontal spinner could be damaging. Plus that one is £85 :shock:

  2. #152
    Lol I wouldn't bother with an ice axe. Those are designed for being thrust into ice surprisingly enough. They are generally very light and sharp pointed. Great for climbing with, not so great for robotic combat. Making an axe head would be easy enough. What kind of weight were you looking for? I've got some nice 20mm hardox pieces kicking around somewhere that would make a lovely featherweight axe head

  3. #153

  4. #154
    id still charge the batts seperately sounds like you have the chargers to cope

    for the axe id go for an off the seld one thats what i have, buts like 1metere plus in length might have to cut it down abit

  5. #155
    If you have an idea of weight and dimensions in your head I'd be happy to cut and weld something up. Cheaper and stronger than a store bought axe

  6. #156

  7. #157
    No problem, you're welcome. Got the cash ok so it should be in the post today or tomorrow. Just remember, you will probably have to shorten the axe arm!

    I wouldn't bother with circuit breakers instead just look to use some automotive fuses if you are worried about drawing too much current. They are cheap as chips and come in various ratings. Also a bit lighter weight wise.

    http://www.technobots.co.uk/acatalog/Sh ... s_422.html

    If you go down the automotive fuse route then you can put a 50A fuse on each channel of the controller. If you use a 100A fuse or breaker then technically one channel could still draw over 50A allowing one side of your speedo to blow without your safety feature stopping it happen so in answer to your question, throw a 50A whatever on each channel of the speedo.

  8. #158

  9. #159
    for a rough idea divide the capacity by the charge rate, ie 3800/200 = 19 hours and yes its fine to change the connector just make sure the polarity is correct for your setup.

  10. #160

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