Running 24V 150W Gold Motors on 12V

[ewan]

You can use two electronizes, just connect the motors in parallel

[stu]

As ewan said just connect the motors in parallel in pairs. One pair (side) per speedo. So you only need 2 electronizes. As for the batteries - im sure if you connect one 12v pack to one electronize and another 12v pack to another electronize you will be fine for a battle. I know Jonno made a robot called Foxy Boxy with 4 12v Drills, 2 Electronizes, and only 2 battery packs (one per side) and it ran for ages. Thats your best bet.

Mr Stu

[stu]

Hiya Andrew,

Dont worry about the wattage - thats going into too much detail which is pointless to be honest - 4 Drill motors will push a feather weight with Astro Flights for drive (FACT!). I remember someone telling me the gear ratio is about 16:1 - if its true or not i dont know, but the output shaft spins at aprox 1000rpm.

Andrew - best way to get into this and have fun is to build the thing with 4 Drill motors - you WILL have more than enough push/wattage/power to push a feather weight. How grippy your wheels are or what your scoop design is like is another factor to how good you will push. At a later date you can modify your battery packs of buy some decent ones from a model shop or online from technobots.co.uk or overlander.co.uk and up the voltage to speed your robot up. But you u need to start somewhere. - Good luck as you seem very technicaly minded and trying to think of the design from every angle.

Mr Stu

[typhoon_driver]

I think you may be pushing it using 15A controllers with 2 drill motors, perhaps look at 30A, then again im using wiper motors, so what do i know :P

The DIY kits will require the soldering iron as far as i know, but to be honest I would just pay the little bit extra and save the hastle!

[aliboy]

Or you could have the self satification of making your own speedos

You will need a soldering iron and you will also need failsafes on the DIY models as well as the normal 10-15ampers. On the more expensive 15 and 30 amp ones they have a built in failsafe. When you add together the cost of a DIY 10amp and a failsafe it is cheeper just to buy the 15amper with built in failsafe.

For 4 motors you will need 30ampers though

[stu]

Andrew- keep the questions coming - thats how we all learnt mate - and were all here to help im sure.

I really wouldnt go for anything lower than 30amps. Drill motors are good things, but are always hungry for battery power. If you stall them a bit, or start to push another robot, they will eat all your battery power just for starters, let alone main course. Also i think 2 drills will blow a 15amp one quite soon, if not soon as you try and push anything. also the 30ampers are already built and have a good failsafe in them really. So they are your best bet mate.

Mr Stu

[grant_ploughbot]

The question you asked about connecting the wheels to the shafts---
once the chuck of the drill is removed, there is a large thread on the end on which you will attach your wheels directly too. This means putting a thread into the hubs of your wheels (this can be done either tapping the hub, or much better pressing or melting a nut into them) the left handed thread on end of the motor shaft is always used to lock the wheel on exactly the same as the chuck. If you do not have the facilities to put a bolt into your wheels, or do not have wheels then give me a ring on 07900913521 or e-mail me at coop_bmx@msn.com on behalf of Rc Wars/Robo-Challenge. We sell many different types of wheels extreamly good for featherweights and some heavyweights, and the best seller by far are the famous BLUE wheels that razer and many many other robots use. We make the wheels at my dads factory and so we can sell them onto roboteers at very low prices.

good luck