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Thread: Rule 4.4 Remote Kill (Advisory Only)

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  7. #27
    team_ireland
    Guest
    Well Andrew basically all you need is just to be able to turn on and off the power to the drive and weapons. This can simply be done through some large relays (about 70amps per motor for feathers and 150amps per motor for heavys) These could be simply turned on and off by an electronic relay device such as the electrolise range from technobots.


    On a different note would Ian Watts Failsafe double as a remote kill switch?

    Regards
    Ian

  8. #28
    Okay; Im just particularly allergic to pain when it comes to being attacked by 100kg robots. :-)

    If someones wandering around with random radio signals (as at the Robot Rumble 2003 when some kids were playing with an r/c car outside) or if theres a chance my electronics might go haywire - always a possibility, if someones stuck an axe through them, or if theyre designed by someone as incompetent as me - I like the idea of being able to kill the thing. Being able to do it in such a manner that it cant get switched back on again would be favourite.

    Of course it does mean Ill have to make damn sure that nothing activates it when I dont want it to, but thats a small price to pay. Im made nervous enough by the idea of sticking my arm through some railings to stick the link in - trapped limbs and snapping noises haunt my thoughts, and in the past Ive proposed the idea of a cattle crush to hold robots still before entering the arena. Trying to turn off a robot which is going King B or doing a Behemoth (vs Mute) isnt my idea of fun, if the control system is already known to be flakey. I have an innate concern that relays might weld themselves in nutty robot mode, and for as long as I might consider things like flippers which automatically fire when somethings on them, I want to be sure my failsafe wont get stuck.

    I trust (relatively) everyone else to be competent with their failsafes - but since Ill be the one with my hands on the removable link, I reserve the right to be very paranoid with my own! (Its just nice to know *how* paranoid!)

    Anyhoo, back to people with less extreme solid-state systems (which Ill probably use as well - no need to spend more time than necessary replacing wires!)

    --
    Fluppet

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  10. #30
    team_ireland
    Guest
    Its sounds to me Andrew that your a little too paranoid. If your that paranoid about getting hurt or something going wrong then robotic combat may not be the sport for you. Perhaps tidley winks is more suitable

    But the most safety concious teams i.e. Big Brother, Tornado, Shredder and Dantomkia all have something simular to relays fitted. Now by saying there the most safety concious I am not taking away from anyone else I am sure that most if not all teams are very very very safety concious but those 4 sprang to mind.

    As for relays welding themselves shut jsut make sure the current your robot can draw is much lower than the relays mak current i.e. if the robot can draw 10 amps use a 15-20amp relay. Equally if the robot can draw 200amps use a 300-400amp relay. Thats my opinion but as I said its up to you.

    Regards
    Ian

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