I would love to know what brand of drills you are using to claim stats of 2x1½hp+
Assmuing 24v Drills almost 50amps each, with that size of a motor I dont think they could sustain that kind of ampage on a continious basis.
I would love to know what brand of drills you are using to claim stats of 2x1½hp+
Assmuing 24v Drills almost 50amps each, with that size of a motor I dont think they could sustain that kind of ampage on a continious basis.
http://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_dewalt.htmlhttp://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_dewalt.html
DeWalt old style drill motor, 18v
the place i got them from, gave me them for free if i dont tell where they are from. so if you know what brand drill motors they are, keep it your own information![]()
Oh well thats peak HP i thought you ment continious Nominal HP so thats not too bad still 63amps, alot of current.
Very nice looking design indeed. Best of luck with the build!
jhq,
Interesting design.
Weve been trying the DeWalt 24V motor/gearbox as a servo to control the position of the tail on Terrorhurtz. Thought I might just share some of the observations weve made so far.
see pics at
http://news.terrorhurtz.com/tailservo/http://news.terrorhurtz.com/tailservo/
The weak point of these gearboxes, as you probably know, is the plastic ring gear of the second stage of the gearbox. The first big hit that the tail took and it disintegrated, as expected.
Dustin provide a replacement, which we havent tried yet, but note that the teeth of this replacement part are just watercut - by no means a nicely machined involute spur gear.
In retrospect I probably wouldnt have bothered with the Dustin high-temp brush housing - it does not locate the brushes very well and in the sort of application we are using the motors, I dont think the brushes should get all that hot.
The plastic gearbox housing has oddly shaped ridges on it (for moulding purposes) and would be quite tricky to make a matching mount for, so we cut the front edge of the gearbox back, to expose 12mm of the final ring gear. This has nice regular splines on it for which it is rather easier to make a matching mount.
Interesting idea in your first drawing of driving the rear arms of the flipper. I think this could work quite well, especially if you dropped the rearmost pivot point right down, below the level of the pivot on the chassis. This would get over the inherant poor initial mechanical advantage when driving the front arms and also eliminate the danger of the rear links going over-centre.
good building
John Reid
http://www.teamhurtz.comhttp://www.teamhurtz.com
(Message edited by terrorhurtz on November 18, 2005)
p.s. I would recommend the Dustin Gear Box conversion kit for 5/8 shaft, though I made my own bearing mount.
nice to hear some experiences about those motors, the most disturbing problem imho is the gearbox front steel piece with roller bearings coming off.
Interesting idea in your first drawing of driving the rear arms of the flipper.
It seemed like a good idea but when i did the maths (with the help of ewan) there was only 4kg of lifting force, most of power was lost because it was trying to move the wrong place so that system wasnt good for lifting/flipping opponents.
btw, what the heck is the cad drawing on your profile? thats some insane designing!
(Message edited by jh-q on November 19, 2005)
I believe John is suggesting something a little different to your first idea, Ill be on msn a little later
Jh-q .......I believe the cad drawing is the tail servo of terrorhurtz...... He gave a link in his post.
Compare the two.
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