The rules don't specify a particular type of light beyond it being a non-filament, only that it is a non-flashing, contrasting colour type so I think you'd be OK as is. Same with the fuses acting as removable links. I've definitely seen that before.The lights from the Argos drills came in handy here, and hopefully they have been used before and are cleared for actual combat use.
Not really links, just a pair of blade fuses and holders I had lying around. I just used them as a quick way to cut the power to each battery. I'll have another look through the FRA rules about links, and an easy enough job if I have to change any wiring to comply.
For reference, rule 6.4 of the build rules states this:
6.4 Power Light
Robots must have at least one surface mounted non-filament power light that is illuminated when the main link is fitted. The power light maybe any colour but must be non-flashing and in contrast with the surroundings.Hahaaha, fair enough. My first featherweight was a garden planter platform and a thin metal lampshade that vaguely sort of fit together. Your two are easily more robust.The boards I used in the 4WD were just the largest and most sturdy I found in the local Sainsburys, I just walked past them doing a weekly shop and picked up what stocks they had on the shelf.
LiFe batteries are a solid choice though most people do use LiPos for the reduced weight and extra power though in my experience, I've never had a problem with LiFe. I use them in my Featherweights and Middleweights. 80A is also a solid choice, the one from Ranglebox is a solid controller, I use a variant of that as my FW's axe controller.Upgraded ESC's are certainly required before any attempt at a competitive battle, batteries too. I'm thinking Life batteries and maybe 80A ESC's if ranglebox.com can get more stocks. But I'm open to suggestions for alternatives you good people use and recommend.
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