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Thread: Brushless verses Brushed Motors

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  1. #1
    You don't stop wheel spin. Being able to spin your own wheels is a desirable property even with brushed. If you don't have the power to break traction you are far more prone to putting your motors into stall, which can be pretty fatal to brushless motors and ESC's due to their higher power tendencies. Plus it's kinda fun to drift around the arena! You do just have to be a bit less stick mashing when driving more powerful bots.

    To add a bit more you don't actually get all that power out of a brushless motor unless you are going fancy with stuff likes VESCs. You overate them a lot to get a good level of power to use out of it despite this.

    For batteries I run 6S for 50-60's with redbrick 200A esc's flashed with Simonk.

  2. #2
    Triceratop
    Guest
    Many thanks Alex,

    Interesting points, so basically brushed are more forgiving when put into stall mode?
    I've had a look at your set up on the web, seems quite a nice system there. Do you need a separate power source for the receiver or does the Rebrick have the power supply?
    Once again being old school I am not up to speed with flashing esc's, is this a kind of rewriting the program within or changing parameters? In my days when rc racing I would use the transmitter and using a button on the esc watching flashing lights...
    I presume 6s, 5s and 4s Lipo use on say your 5060 motor is not linear as far as Amps drawn, not sure how to find out that information. My FW doesn't have the space for a 6s, a 5s will be tight.
    Also I am trying to understand power to weight ratio, from my days of racing slipping wheel is loss of power and in some cases reduces acceleration, hence the good old clutch slip to keep max torque to min slippage. Wonder if we could use centrifugal clutches...? lol.
    Finally, for both brushed and brushless, do you know how much over voltage is safe e.g. 18v motor running on 22.2v (6s)?

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