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Thread: Haynes Manual Build a Robot

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  3. #103
    Ocracoke's Avatar
    Team Kaizen

    does the ESC have inputs for both batteries? Or would i wire them up in series?
    You would need to wire it up in series (for increased voltage) or in parallel (for increased capacity) to get power to the ESC.
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  4. #104

  5. #105
    I think the original Haynes manual just uses one of the batteries, which should be fine for testing that it works and a bit of driving around. The battery itself might have some overcurrent protection, in which case it should cut out if you try to draw too much current, but I'm not 100% sure if that's in the battery or the controller in the drill power switch. May well depend on the model of drill.

    In any case, it's probably best to play it safe once everything's up and running, and put in a your own battery with known specs and a suitable fuse, otherwise you're kinda running blind in that regard. Even with two batteries in parallel, if they don't have any protection and you stall both motors you could be drawing over 100 A and that could potentially fry the ESC, motor or result in a battery going pop (in theory that type of battery shouldn't full on explode and kill anyone if shorted but will make a big enough bang to require a change of underwear).

    EDIT: Scarrosaki beat me to it on the first point!

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  7. #107
    I'd say the drill battery will be fine for testing, but ultimately I would say yeah, just get a lipo and put a fuse in.

    We use one of these in Ensign Wedgeley Crusher:
    I think they're way overkill for what we need but better to have more juice than not enough. I also note they're on offer today...

    Most people seem to use in-line blade fuses but I used ring terminals for all our wiring and so strip fuses were a more secure way to go:

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  10. #110
    If it helps I dug up the F2 data sheet (Still on the store, just tucked away):

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