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Thread: Haynes Manual Build a Robot

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdamST180 View Post
    Cheers guys, i keep looking at it but then giving up as no idea what im doing

    I have an ESC the Feathertwo, not worried about a weapon yet just trying to get it running on the ply base i have cut and then go from there
    Feathertwo is very simple setup, it basically goes:

    Battery -> link -> Feathertwo battery inputs (the single pair of red and black wires at one end) -> red pair to one motor, black pair to second motor (other end of esc).

    Be sure to check the polarity from battery to esc, red to red, black to black before powering it up for the first time, as reverse polarity will damage the feathertwo.

    Plug the two rx connectors into your rx, white wire top, into the Ele and Ail inputs. The Feathertwo has a builtin BEC and will provide power to the receiver.

    You might want to connect the two motors to the esc via screw terminals before soldering, so you can swap them around if one drive motor is spinning the wrong direction on inputs.

    Once you're happy it tests out OK with screw terminals, would recommend soldering XT connectors for everything and labelling them for future reference.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scarrosaki View Post
    Feathertwo is very simple setup, it basically goes:

    Battery -> link -> Feathertwo battery inputs (the single pair of red and black wires at one end) -> red pair to one motor, black pair to second motor (other end of esc).

    Be sure to check the polarity from battery to esc, red to red, black to black before powering it up for the first time, as reverse polarity will damage the feathertwo.

    Plug the two rx connectors into your rx, white wire top, into the Ele and Ail inputs. The Feathertwo has a builtin BEC and will provide power to the receiver.

    You might want to connect the two motors to the esc via screw terminals before soldering, so you can swap them around if one drive motor is spinning the wrong direction on inputs.

    Once you're happy it tests out OK with screw terminals, would recommend soldering XT connectors for everything and labelling them for future reference.
    Sounds good, i can follow that does the ESC have inputs for both batteries? Or would i wire them up in series?

  3. #103
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    does the ESC have inputs for both batteries? Or would i wire them up in series?
    You would need to wire it up in series (for increased voltage) or in parallel (for increased capacity) to get power to the ESC.
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  4. #104
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    If you're using the Argos drill batteries and motors, would recommend just running a single battery to start with until you're happy with the wiring before thinking about adding a second battery in parallel or series.

    Whilst the Feathertwo can handle running 2 batteries in series for a combined 24V, doing so will be overvolting the motors and pushing the Ampage limits of the esc which is not a great thing to try if it's first build territory, just adds a ton of extra things to go wrong.
    Last edited by Scarrosaki; 13th June 2019 at 11:47.

  5. #105
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    I think the original Haynes manual just uses one of the batteries, which should be fine for testing that it works and a bit of driving around. The battery itself might have some overcurrent protection, in which case it should cut out if you try to draw too much current, but I'm not 100% sure if that's in the battery or the controller in the drill power switch. May well depend on the model of drill.

    In any case, it's probably best to play it safe once everything's up and running, and put in a your own battery with known specs and a suitable fuse, otherwise you're kinda running blind in that regard. Even with two batteries in parallel, if they don't have any protection and you stall both motors you could be drawing over 100 A and that could potentially fry the ESC, motor or result in a battery going pop (in theory that type of battery shouldn't full on explode and kill anyone if shorted but will make a big enough bang to require a change of underwear).

    EDIT: Scarrosaki beat me to it on the first point!

  6. #106
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    So ignore the drill battery and just get a known lipo and fuse will be better?

    Dont want to risk frying the ESC as cost a lot lol

  7. #107
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    I'd say the drill battery will be fine for testing, but ultimately I would say yeah, just get a lipo and put a fuse in.

    We use one of these in Ensign Wedgeley Crusher: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-fl...___store=en_us
    I think they're way overkill for what we need but better to have more juice than not enough. I also note they're on offer today...

    Most people seem to use in-line blade fuses but I used ring terminals for all our wiring and so strip fuses were a more secure way to go: https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/c...RF40&0&cc5_500

  8. #108
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    Will test with the drill battery i think then as already got that and then once its running can at least then change to lipos, thanks for the help guys, I will get there eventually

  9. #109
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    Ordered "Electronics for Dummies" so can get into all this again so know what im doing

  10. #110
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    If it helps I dug up the F2 data sheet (Still on the store, just tucked away): https://nutsandbots.co.uk/ftds/

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