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Thread: Haynes Manual Build a Robot

  1. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocracoke View Post
    Ah, I had missed it was a XT-90. You would need one of these - https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt90-mal...-2pcs-bag.html - to make the connection.
    Sorted, cheers

    This robot building is expensive!

  2. #142
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    Hahhaa, that it is. I once totaled up how much my second version of The Honey Badger cost me. Close to about £400 but then again, I was things like a pricey transmitter at the time and such.
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

  3. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocracoke View Post
    Hahhaa, that it is. I once totaled up how much my second version of The Honey Badger cost me. Close to about £400 but then again, I was things like a pricey transmitter at the time and such.
    Yeah lol, I managed to get a second hand DX6i for not too much, but between the ESC and everything else plus tools its cost a fair bit and this is just the prototype, got to get the HDPE next

  4. #144
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    The thing is, as a one off, it is expensive, yes but you do end up reusing tools and components from one machine to the next as you go along. My Middleweight needs a new body but the parts from the current version can easily be transplanted so that will only cost me about £300 or 400 to get the parts and for me to machine them to make it work.
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

  5. #145
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    Expenses wise, the worst part is always starting up. Once you're up & running it's not so bad & as Lucy said the vast majority of it can be reused & more expensive things like transmitters usually don't get damaged in combat. I've had a pretty rough run over the last couple of events (1 lipo fire, 1 other lipo die & multiple big hits from spinners) but once I've added it up it was less than half what I spent on the hotels for the events.
    James
    Team Phyte

  6. #146
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    Yeah most of it is reusable thankfully! Just gotta price up the HDPE once got the design finalised.

    LiPo and chargers ordered and dispatched from hobby king, so think I have everything I need now

  7. #147
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    Im sure i remembering reading it on here before but looked in many threads and cant find it.

    How do I work out what fuse size I need for this; https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...ack-xt-90.html

  8. #148
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    The max current from your battery is the capacity in Ah multiplied by the C rate (in this case you have a burst and continuous C rate, so use the lower of the two, i.e., the continuous rating). That's 4.0 Ah x 60 C = 240 A. The fuse must be less that that.

    However, with two drill motors and a linac you'll never get close to 240 A. So to protect your motors and ESCs you are probably better off with something around the 100 A mark, or even less. We have an 80 A fuse for a similar setup to yours.

  9. #149
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    You work out the burst amperage of the battery and get a fuse below that amperage as per the rules:

    7.8.3 Fusing
    A fuse rated below the maximum burst discharge of the battery MUST be fitted. The maximum burst discharge current is calculated by multiplying the C rating by the capacity. E.g. 25C 2200mAh = 55 Amp
    So in that particular batteries case, it is 4 amps * 120C = 480amps (240amps constant). That, to me, sounds crazy and you'll likely never draw that much. I'd figure on it being a quarter of that, so 120amps but from experience, a 60 or 80amp fuse will be sufficient. I've yet to blow a 80A fuse in either my Featherweights or my Middleweights.
    Last edited by Ocracoke; 17th July 2019 at 08:54.
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

  10. #150
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    Looks like we're largely in agreement here Lucy!

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