Quote Originally Posted by Ocracoke View Post
The controllers from bog standard RC cars, in my experience, are not up to the job. I wouldn't know if the controllers for nitros are up to the job (I have no experience with IC RC vehicles) but I can't imagine them being up to the job either given the pounding a combative robot takes.



Nothing to say that you couldn't make it interchangeable... that is the plan for The Honey Badger 3.0 when I eventually get around to building it.



RC wheels work OK in my experience. The 110mm diameter off roader wheels I use on The Honey Badger 2.1 are reasonably meaty enough to give some, if not total, grip. However, keep them inboard as the softer plastic/rubber is prone to being ripped. You may find that the chassis won't stand up to the punishment though as is so you'll probably want to strengthen/adapt it to take heavy hits.



As I say, mine runs at 13.2v but I am sure there are much higher voltages out there. I would have said 12v as a minimum was a good base point for a Featherweight. Amperage... depends on the motor and speed controllers being used. My previous featherweight ran sealed lead acid batteries with 2x 1.2aH batteries being "enough" to drive the robot but it was terribly weak.

Is there any recommended minimum on the controller and receiver that I can tell if my nitro car controllers will be no good?

Interchangable may be slightly above where im at at the moment! Although i love the idea. Or maybe 2 bots is better *rolls eyes*

so ideally i’m looking for 15v+ to be comfortable and as for the batteries thats something ive got to learn for definite