Was the screw taking sideways pressure rather than just squeezing the nut to the wheel?
If it helps I found some hand screws on Amazon that are a bit longer than the standard Argos one - up to 30mm length, which might make it a bit stronger?
Last edited by lowndsy; 3rd May 2017 at 14:36.
I don't think there should have been any sideways pressure on the screw, its all taken by the gearbox output shaft, so the screw should have been just squeezing the nut in the wheel on to the shaft. I'll double check its all square and true when I get to have a look at it it at the weekend. Is there any chance you could drop me a link for the longer LH screws please? I got this spare out of an old dead battery drill, but if I break this one too then I'm out of them.
Sorry, couldn't find the M5 size ones on Amazon any more, but I think this is the same seller on ebay - same location (Germany) with the same flat shipping fee that applies once per order, not item.Originally Posted by Al_
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-X-30-MM...gAAOSwuxFYz9Z5
They do a 35mm length version too
There are also these options:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-Steel-...gAAOSw5cNYZPGa
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-Genui...kAAOSwo4pYTTIL
and more from those sellers. The amazon seller does not have those screws in stock at the moment - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Left-Lockin.../dp/B003S7U30E
Thank you for all the suggestions regarding the snapped screw. I got to take a good look at the drive on Pressure Point over the weekend to try and figure out the reason for it snapping. The only difference between the 2 sides that I could find was on the side where the screw snapped, there was a bit of debris created from melting the 3/8UNF piece into the wheel. This was stopping the 3/8unf piece from screwing all the way up to the shoulder on the gearbox output shaft by about 1mm. The wheel was still pulled on hard against this, but maybe it was causing the problem. Anyway I have cleaned it up and now it screws on all the way up to the shoulder like the other side, so hopefully this will sort it.
While checking the drive/wheels over, I noticed that I had some odd behaviour going on with the mixing for the drive. I have both channels mixed to the right hand stick on the Tx as I think is pretty normal. The idea being that forwards on the stick gives me forwards on both wheels, backwards gives me backwards on both wheels, left put the LH wheel in reverse and the RH wheel in forwards and so on. For some reason pushing forward on the stick makes the LH wheel turn much harder and faster than the RH wheel which would make the bot turn to the right. In a similar but opposite way, pushing backwards on the stick makes the RH wheel turn much harder and faster than the LH wheel, which would also make the bot go in a curve. However, pushing either left or right on the stick makes the wheels turn at the same rate but in opposite directions as you would expect. Video below to better show what I am trying to explain
I have checked over everything I can think of and I’m fairly sure that the problem lies with how I have the mixing set up as the problem is not specific to just 1 Rx Channel, 1 motor or 1 ESC. I’m running a Spektrum DX6 with a lemon Rx and modded TX85A ESCs, so if anyone has any suggestions I would be very grateful. I’ll add the mixing settings I have on the TX to the post as soon as I can.
Other than the above I have started getting the armour mounted with most of the right hand side done. There are some rough edges to sort and the fixings need a bit of work, but it gives you an idea of the general look.
Pic 1.jpgPic 2.jpg
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