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Thread: New HW design - Omni Wheels and 30kW spinner

  1. #51
    Side note on tapping Hardox/Armox... I was chatting to the Guhring guys at MACH 2016 and they told me about a different type of tap for threading very hard materials. I can't remember the name but I remember the process.

    Rather than cutting the thread this tool reshapes the metal into the thread profile. As an example, for a M6 thread you drill a 5mm hole, but for this you drill a 5.5mm (Half way) and then the tap deforms the metal into a complete thread so you are never removing material in the process, just reforming it.

    Also, since you are reshaping the material and not cutting it, the formed threads are much stronger than a regular threads and are harder to destroy. While the process requires more force it doesn't produce any more heat than a regular tap due to the change in surface area.

    I've not bothered looking it up recently as I haven't needed to do any serious tapping but it might be useful if you find yourself needing to tap +4mm hardox with an M5 or greater thread.

  2. #52
    The Guhring doco indicates the cold-forming taps are only recommended up to 320 Brinell hardness, so Hardox 450 is too hard for that type of tap. I have a couple of cold-forming taps but due to the extreme torque needed, I don't use them much.

  3. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by overkill View Post
    The Guhring doco indicates the cold-forming taps are only recommended up to 320 Brinell hardness, so Hardox 450 is too hard for that type of tap. I have a couple of cold-forming taps but due to the extreme torque needed, I don't use them much.
    That's how I know it, forming taps are suitable for ductile materials, that said for sure there are specialised forming taps which are good for hard materials...At our work machine shop we have something similar for threading in titanium, but its a machine taps, ie mounted on the milling machine not a hand taps.

  4. #54
    LOL, ductile means different things depending on if you are talking to the sales rep or the poor sucker trying to hand tap holes.

  5. #55
    Well some good news, we think that because the ring itself is mounted behind armor and has the single tooth mounted on it, we can make the ring out of a mild steel to make tapping it possible and reduce the price.

    We can then get the tooth/blade made of hardox and bolt it to the ring with a few >M12 high tensile bolts.

    The ring is mounted with 2 rows of skateboard wheels at 45° that run on the aluminium tracks bolted to the top and bottom of the ring. Using the skateboard wheels helps to prevent damage to the bearings, and they are really cheap. I will post a picture once I have modelled it.

    We cannot decide what to use for the armor above/below the ring though, since it is angled we can't get it made of a large piece of hardox so the only really practical options are to either machine it out of a few pieces of aluminium (we can do this ourselves so keeps the price down) or get lots of small pieces of hardox cut and bolt them on to a frame underneath (more expensive but should be stronger).

    Also bear in mind that it is invertible and we want it to be identically armoured both ways up.

    The top/bottom flat armor is currently planned to be 4mm hardox with 4mm 6082T6 aluminium below it. (Might drop down to 10mm 7075 aluminium if its too heavy)

  6. #56
    Weld the teeth to the ring. Bolts WILL come loose and you will be nothing more than a harmless spinning top after one hit.

    Bear in mind that the skateboard wheels run on small bearings on an 8mm shaft. Any sudden shock and those bearings will not work anymore.

  7. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by typhoon_driver View Post
    Weld the teeth to the ring. Bolts WILL come loose and you will be nothing more than a harmless spinning top after one hit.

    Bear in mind that the skateboard wheels run on small bearings on an 8mm shaft. Any sudden shock and those bearings will not work anymore.
    Yeah we are probably going to make the holes in them bigger and put in some larger bearings. But they are cheap enough we can test it before and see if any are damaged by running the ring into a big steel plate or something. (obviously not a great test for getting hit by another spinner)
    Last edited by TechAUmNu; 4th September 2016 at 17:51.

  8. #58
    Here it is with the skateboard wheels.
    bearing mockup.jpg

  9. #59

  10. #60
    Quote Originally Posted by Black-Tie Knife Fight View Post
    What hardness of wheel would you be looking at? something like 101a I'd imagine?
    We currently have 4 SHR-95A for testing. We don't want them to be too hard since they need to absorb most of the shock to stop it reaching the bearings and other components.

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