Hi Alex,

Looks like a good list, everything on there is pretty go-to standard for starting off in feathers, so well done for doing your research beforehand

The only advice I would offer is to go for the Botbitz 85A controllers instead of the 30A ones. They are more expensive to begin with, but will leave the door open to make the robot to 4-wheel drive with two extra drills if you ever wanted to do that as an upgrade or a rebuild. It will give you a larger operating margin as well, so there is less of a chance of them being damaged. Just my 2 pence worth.

Featherweight-sized wheels that screw directly onto the drill output shafts are quite hard to come by these days (we used to have a great selection a fair few years ago) so most people tend to make their own. For example, if you get a hold of some 3/8" UNF nuts (this matches the thread on the drill motor shaft) and use a heavy duty soldering iron or blowtorch to heat them up, you can then press/melt them into the bore of something like this: http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/BZMM100...r_Wheel-8698-p

This will give you something with moderate grip that can screw straight on to the motor and be secured in place with the reverse threaded screw from the drill. They will be prone to wear over time so you might find that the nut starts to slip or the wheel starts to wobble a little, so may be worth making a couple of spares.

Pre-made motor mounts are again quite hard to come by now. Robo Challenge used to make some but don't anymore, so again you have to usually go for the home-brew approach. Depending on your tools and skills, there are a couple of options. You can just drills some holes in the baseplate and pass a jubilee clip through them, one at either end of the motor, to strap them down to the chassis. Not the most precise or solid method but keeps them in place and is cheap and cheerful. The other option, which is the method I use and useful if you have bulkheads in your robot, is to cut a 30mm x 25mm rectangle out of the bulkhead material. This allows the double-D shaped collar on the drill gearbox to slot through but prevents the assembly from rotating. You can then use the circular black plate with the two screw holes that came off the drill casing to secure the motor in place by clamping it to the bulkhead. The collar is around 22mm deep so if your bulkhead thickness is less than that, you'll need to make a spacer of some sort. Hope that doesn't sound too much like gobbledygook!

What did you have in mind for chassis materials?