Splitting power out

[leorcc]

If you had put the 100A fuse on the first lipo it would have done nothing. The rated current of the lipo in burst is 64A so the fuse would not have melted or protected anything while your lipo struggles.

On the second battery your fuse actually serves a purpose. It is rated up to the nominal discharge and well below the burst (100A and 150A) so if the battery gets that much current draw the fuse will start to do its job.

[Coolspeedbot]

If you had put the 100A fuse on the first lipo it would have done nothing. The rated current of the lipo in burst is 64A so the fuse would not have melted or protected anything while your lipo struggles.

On the second battery your fuse actually serves a purpose. It is rated up to the nominal discharge and well below the burst (100A and 150A) so if the battery gets that much current draw the fuse will start to do its job.

I see. Thanks

as for the smaller LiPo, yeah I knew that 100amp fuse would be no good, I had found a 50amp fuse for that but I wasn't sure if the bigger LiPo was too much for the 100amp fuse.

[Eventorizon]

I have a 100A Automotive fuse on my FW's spinner weapon. The ESC is actually rated to 160A and the motor is 120A Burst, 85A Cont. You can put spike currents of roughly double a fuses rated amperage though it, in the same way that LiPo's have C ratings for continuous and burst.

On start up the motor has drawn 200A through a 100A fuse and 160A ESC, but because its only for 1 second its fine.

Rating your Fuse for the expected continuous rating for a system +20% is a rule of thumb I have been using since I started and I have never had one blow (I have no idea if that is a good thing or not but heck, I have been able to keep fighting). This will cover both regular combat currents, spikes from collsions/shoving matches, and major spikes in spinner weapons when they make contact.

[Coolspeedbot]

I have a 100A Automotive fuse on my FW's spinner weapon. The ESC is actually rated to 160A and the motor is 120A Burst, 85A Cont. You can put spike currents of roughly double a fuses rated amperage though it, in the same way that LiPo's have C ratings for continuous and burst.

On start up the motor has drawn 200A through a 100A fuse and 160A ESC, but because its only for 1 second its fine.

Rating your Fuse for the expected continuous rating for a system +20% is a rule of thumb I have been using since I started and I have never had one blow (I have no idea if that is a good thing or not but heck, I have been able to keep fighting). This will cover both regular combat currents, spikes from collsions/shoving matches, and major spikes in spinner weapons when they make contact.

Oh ok, I'm only building a ram/wedge bot for my first feather weight so I should be fine then