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Thread: Cheap Drive ESC

  1. #31
    Ah excellent, real chips! :P (International Rectifier and Texas Instruments instead of chinese brands). Both chips are rated to 30V, but the MOSFETS gate to source voltage is +/- 16v, which is where the 16V voltage rating probably comes from. If I just stick a 15V regulator on the logic circuits it should be fine at 24V I'll have to get on and purchase some; there's quite a good selection to choose from here: http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?...20140814095633

    As I expected the 340A rating is made up from the MOSFET's peak value of 470A; the MOSFETS are only actually rated at 140A continuous, and looking at the photos it appears that the current goes through a single MOSFET on the high side, and two MOSFETS on the low side. Even the two low MOSFETs are only gonna be able to handle 280A, and even that's only a theoretical value. For comparison, the TZ85 speed controllers uses two 130A continuous MOSFETSs in parallel, and yet is given a realistic output current of 85A. Going on that theory, it gives our cheap '340A' amp ESC an actual current rating of more like 40A... still, not bad for less then £10!

    It'll probably have some firmware issues, but the LM339 suggests that they're using the same type of circuit as the 20A one's I've used in Richie, which is a pretty workable design. It should just be a case of adding the 15V reg and maybe upgrading the firmware. The cables and smoothing look perfectly adequate for my motors (which only draw 5A! I'm hoping to upgrade at some point though..)

    Cheers for the all the info
    Last edited by Rapidrory; 14th August 2014 at 18:11.

  2. #32
    if you can mod them easily enough you should do a load and sell them the 1s running night fury held up to plenty of abuse

  3. #33
    Id definitely buy a couple if they were modded to run at 24v and the annoying brake was removed

  4. #34
    What was annoying about the brake? It'd be very easy to remove if I was replacing the firmware anyway, I just always have a brake on my ESCs otherwise I find steering my bots to be tricky... I'd have to buy some different PIC chips if I was gonna do firmware upgrades on them all, but that's not a huge issue, especially since it uses a 1mm pin pitch micro controller, unlike the 0.65mm pitch ones on the 20A board which are a pain to solder up...

    Depending on whether I can do a decent mod to the boards, I could look into buying, modding and selling them... Gotta buy some for myself first :P

  5. #35
    I didn't use them myself but from what I gather the escs would stop the motors completely when quickly changing direction

  6. #36

  7. #37
    Very nice, but only good for 2 cell lipos :/

  8. #38
    With the ESCs that folk were having problems with, when you change from forward to reverse, you couldn't just pull the stick from one end to the other. You'd have to centre the stick before attempting to reverse, aka full forward -> stop -> backwards. Not ideal for driving.

    The other form of braking, which is the type I'm assuming Rory is talking about, is the one where, when you let go of the stick, the motors/wheels come to an abrupt stop, rather than coasting to a standstill. This type of braking is desirable in robot combat as it allows for more precise driving.

  9. #39
    Yeah, the forward, stop, backwards one is almost unusable in combat, but I can see why they'd be great in an RC car say.
    The brakes I implement are the ones where the motors are brought to a halt when you let go of the sticks.

  10. #40
    2S in a beetle. I don't see the problem.

    2S in a feather. Not for a pusher, but for a weapon with a drive, why not? 100W on 2S is only 16An and that's GR02 power.

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