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Thread: Cheap Drive ESC

  1. #11
    but i would make sure it says the don't have a brake as i think you can get them with or without

  2. #12
    These are the cheap 20A ones without brakes on the website i found:

    Though I find a robot without ESC braking can be tricky to control, as it carries on moving when you release the sticks.

    EDIT: Also, motor braking shouldn't affect that ESC, as it's way over rated for the a BW motor so should be able to handle any amount of stick waving, brakes or no.
    Last edited by Rapidrory; 22nd June 2014 at 21:48.

  3. #13
    well they seem to stop when you take your finger off the throttle but don't stop when you go from forward to reverse .... and they have the same sticker on as mine

  4. #14
    All the brakes do is connect both motor outputs to 0v when at center stick. The motor'll stop at center stick with or without braking, but will be much harder to turn with braking. So when moving from forward to reverse quickly, the brakes will have little to no effect on the motor.

  5. #15
    Didn't know Hobbyking did brushed ESCs... 30A continuous, 3 cell, under 5, UK stock, and good reviews... buying now!

    EDIT: Not buying now: no reverse
    Last edited by Rapidrory; 7th July 2014 at 17:03.

  6. #16
    Hobbyking sell the F20A which has some code knocking about that will convert it into a brushed controller with instant reverse. They are also under a fiver. Trouble is it has the same mixing issue that some of the botbitz controllers have.

  7. #17
    Couldn't find the F20A; this is the only other one I could see on HK.. Seems alright, though it is only 2 cell. Also depends if it has full speed reverse...
    Last edited by Rapidrory; 8th July 2014 at 10:25.

  8. #18
    I think I missed a dash. It's the f-20a. Here's the link.

    If you look in the files section at the bottom of the page there is a guide on how to make it into a reversible brushed controller.

  9. #19
    The F20A was the 25A ESC that BotBitz use to sell before it was replaced by the 30A ESC's.
    The reason we abandoned the 25A ESC was the production quality changed dramatically and the controllers became rather unreliable.

  10. #20
    Ok, so bought some of the 20A ones off ebay to run my featherweight, and they worked fine...

    ... after replacing the microcontroller with firmware that worked, upgrading (adding) the noise protection, and fitting heavier duty cables...

    The firmware had a feature/bug which meant that you could go from forward to reverse just fine, but if you tried going from reverse to forwards, it would do nothing unless you held the stick centered for a second or so, and even then it only sometimes worked. It also didn't turn the motors fully on when the stick was at maximum throw. To fix it I modified the code used for my antweight ESCs, and carefully fly wired in the replacement microcontroller chip.

    The cables were also pathetic, and got fairly warm even when running drill motors under no load, so I replaced them with cables of double the thickness. Also added an input capacitor which should have been fitted and wasn't, and beefed up some of the tracks to the MOSFETs which looked a bit weedy.

    It's a classic case of the chinese reverse engineering a good design in the cheapest way possible; the circuit used is actually very good, but the implementation was lousy.

    They now work pretty much perfectly, but were hardly plug and play! Still, not complaining too much; 13 for a featherweight ESC is fine by me

    Firmware upgrade wired in (old chip shown next to the board)

    Cable upgrade and noise suppression (bottom board is the original)

    (These were the ones I bought: )

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