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Thread: Boring Brick

  1. #71

  2. #72
    Max's Avatar
    Member

    You could open up your transmitter and either wire in a toggle switch in place of the rudder channel (there is information available on how to do this) or add springs to the throttle stick so it pings back to centre and possible switch round the wires for throttle and rudder so the throttle stick becomes the rudder channel so fail safes. Finally you could add an external fail safe into the robot.

  3. #73
    I've tried plugging the esc and drive motor into the rudder channel as a test and after some work with the trim buttons it does failsafe on that channel which is a relief, thanks for all the help

  4. #74
    this is what I got from google:

    MLP4DSM Binding Procedure
    1. Disconnect the flight battery from the Quad-Copter. (read link and bot)
    2. Center all trims on your transmitter. Refer to the transmitter control section for trim instructions.
    3. Power off the transmitter and move the throttle stick to the down/off position. (in our case keep it centre for forward/backward control)
    4. Connect the flight battery in the Quad-Copter. The LED on the 4-in-1 Control unit flashes after 5 seconds.
    5. Push in and hold down the left stick while powering on the transmitter (you will hear a ‘click’). (I think you should swap step 4 and 5 out. try both just to be sure)
    6. Release the left stick. The transmitter will beep and the power LED will blink.
    7. The Quad-Copter is bound when the LED on the 4-in-1 control unit is solid blue (not blinking).
    8. Disconnect the flight battery and power the transmitter off.

    might be worth a try, cause you'll want all channels to failsafe.

  5. #75
    Thanks for the info Niels, after a lot of trial and error i've managed to get the throttle channel to failsafe as well as all of the other channels, not really done much else today apart from making a battery mount/esc mount

  6. #76
    Pleased I could help.
    Do you remember how you did it? Might make a usefull youtube video for others.

  7. #77
    I don't remember how tbh, but when i get the time i'm sure i can do it again and remember how to

  8. #78
    If it's like the other orange RX's, you can pull out the bind plug after you've turned the RX, and it will trick the software into thinking output upon signal loss should be zero. Do that, them do the TX process and it will bind as normal, but failsafed on all channels.

  9. #79
    Courtesy of the wizard that is Mario
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #80
    Don't overdo. It's just steel, with piece of 6mm hardox as axehead.

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