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Thread: No Toy Robotics

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  1. #1
    Remember the tz85s have a braking function which is quite violent. It will be harsher on the motor.

    Have you tried fiddling with the electronize's PWM dial? You can set it to have relatively poor control but good torque (fewer, but bigger pulses) or to have finer control but less grunt. Night help a bit regardless of motor setup.
    --

    Aside from that, is the 7:1 reduction the total reduction? If so, that sounds like very little to me, low revving motor or not. Tormenta 2 uses a motor of comparable grunt (albeit faster, but the point stands) for the weapon, that is overvolted and at around 100:1 - something like 100rpm on the weapon shaft - and it's plenty fast enough to throw itself and other machines. For an elec axe of this sort of scale I wouldn't try to gear for faster than 200rpm, it's not really needed and power is wasted in making theoretically faster swinging axes actually run slower because of strain.

    Jamie's Onyx was originally powered by a drill motor with a 5:1 chain reduction to the axe. Under load that's probably only a tad faster than 100rpm. But it didn't lack power or look slow:

    Same goes with another roboteer's similar setup:

    Neither of these setups were particularly reliable because drill gearboxes can't handle the loads, but the idea is that both of these are geared way way way slower than most elec axes (and both use relatively puny motors) yet don't lack apparent power.
    --

    I don't know what can be done for your setup in time for the champs, but I'm pretty sure you just need a lot more reduction. A 3kg axe is a hefty thing to get swinging regardless of motor. My only thought is an additional stage built from scratch as you mentioned above, or there may be merit in mating the motor you have to a large drill gearbox from a name brand. You can get such things for next to nothing from all over the place. People just throw them out in bulk as the batteries die, or as they upgrade to the new lithium based drills.

    Hope you can resolve it, either way.
    Last edited by Ellis; 21st March 2014 at 11:57.

  2. #2
    its not the esc, the motors are the problem probably do require a first stage reduction, plan b tried my cim motors from my half built feather better but not great so best idea use the old mfa motors again, never broken or ever caused a problem upto know, but I will run them on 22.2v instead of the old 12v battery system, new brackets etc in design hopefully next test on video by next weekend

  3. #3

  4. #4
    Mfa motors fitted and quick test this morning, the axe is much quicker then before, robot drives and the weapon works only some body armour Battery mount left to do, then a full strip down and rebuild with thread lock etc, hopefully video by the end of Sunday. Toying with idea of a front skirt to help stop flippers getting under

  5. #5

  6. #6
    That's more like it

  7. #7
    Looking great! Those holes are pretty impressive, I'll have to steer clear with just a 5mm hdpe top panel!

  8. #8
    Looking good! Looking at the video, the front of your robot is lifting up a huge amount when firing before you even hit your opponent. This will be taking away a massive amount of power from the end of your weapon. If you have weight, I would suggest putting abit of a wheely bar on the back long enough to get that ump to a minimum.

  9. #9
    Good idea also looking at a wedge to get under opponents, have aroung 300gram left so not alot, cant wait for gsl had such a blast last year

  10. #10
    Nice one Adam, definitely going to be a tougher prospect this year. Would love to get drawn against it again

    Is there a particular reason that the rear axe stop is quite high? I.e. if the axe swung back further, would it start hitting internal components? Seems if you reduced it to just above the top of the HDPE armour, you'd get a little more travel resulting in slightly more energy in the swing? Wouldn't be a huge amount I guess but every little helps.

    Glad to see the TZ85s are working too.

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