I think it's m5 but don't hold me to that. That axe mechanism looks awesome and u built it in a few hours! I need a week lol
I think it's m5 but don't hold me to that. That axe mechanism looks awesome and u built it in a few hours! I need a week lol
Also, if no-body minds another thousand questions, what rod would I have to use to get the weapon to slide smoothly? And how would I cut the hole?
Drill motor shafts are 3/8 UNF which will correspond to bore.
The tapped hole(s) are for locking the gear to the shaft via grub screws, make as big as possible without removing too much material from the shaft. To use the grub screws properly you'll need to make a flat or divot (depending on the tip shape of the screw) in the shaft corresponding to the position of the grub screw. You might even be able to tap the hole in the gear if you get it to the right diameter.
The silver steel shafts that technobots offer should be fine coupled with some bearings for mounting the other gears.
Also which hole do you mean?
I meant the hole in the middle where the shaft would go, but I had forgotten there were drillbits of that size.
Yeah sure their m5
^ Thanks, that helps quite a bit.
So, I've got everything but the tube that goes through the middle of the big sprocket bookmarked, I just don't know what diameter to go for. Is the diameter in centimeters or inches? It's not clear on the website.
The tube that I use on mine is actually a 12mm silver steel bar from Technobots:
http://www.technobotsonline.com/silv...3mm-33173.html
I then cut it to the appropriate length (~100mm) then drilled a hole in either end and tapped it to take an M5 bolt, just to help hold the whole assembly together. There are also 12mm needle roller bearings pressed into the bulkheads.
The output thread/shaft on a drill motor is 3/8"UNF as mentioned. In metric this is approximately equal to 9.52mm. So what I did was drill out the small sprocket to 9.5mm, screwed it on to the drill shaft (it caught the thread very lightly, but not great) and then fitted the reverse thread screw to compress it on. Seemed alright but after one test fire, the sprocket came loose. I've since welded the sprocket on.
If you don't have access to a welder, the next best option would be to drill the sprocket hole out to 9mm and then use a 3/8"UNF tap to thread it and screw it on to the drill motor (this is effectively the same as screwing a blue wheel on) then secure it using the reverse-thread screw. The grub screw option isn't really effective for the 8-tooth sprocket as once you've drilled it out to fit on the shaft, there's not a whole lot of material left to tap.
Hope that helps; usually easier to explain these things in reality than across the internet. More pictures of my axe mechanism can be found here if you want a better look or alternative angles: http://s31.photobucket.com/user/ayrs...?sort=6&page=1
Right, I sort of see. As you said, it would be easier for a live showing, but I've been too preoccupied with current events to get down to any of the... Events. The pictures do help quite a bit, and I will probably learn a bit through them. I'll have a good ponder about it tomorrow, but as of now, I must be off to bed.
Got myself a nice cheap Tap and Die set, so now, I believe, I can focus on saving up for parts. The Tap & Die set comes with M4, M5, M6 and M8 Taps and the same size thingies that make screws.
Basically, the Axe is going to be at the back of the robot, and swing overhead, making it so it can hit front and back, with a pickaxe style blade. Either that, or do it the other way, so the wedge is the rear, and have it rest on that. Maybe do a scythe looking blade there too. I believe that wouldn't made it imbalanced, so I may end up with that. I can whip something up in paint, if my explanation is a bit too weird/stupid.
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