Team Pasty Build Diary: Loki

**daveimi** · 16th June 2013, 21:04

Fantastic design, I like the shape with the wedge rather than forks (spinners and so on).

**ChrisKazoo** · 24th June 2013, 16:26

Time for another update, it's a been a little while.

Following fellow roboteers' advice, I have moved the wheels to the middle of the robot and is a lot easier to control now so thanks! (I considered 4WD but with the current design there isn't enough space with the actuator in the position it's in).

I've moved the removable link and power LED to the top as I want to but diagonals to join the wheel sides to the back for a bit more protection for the gubbins (if that even makes sense, so it would look like the CAD on not the 'T shape' it is at the moment).

I've also made some armour out of the ally off cuts I have and had a go at painting to see how my paint looks. I'm liking the results

The armour is a little short, I'll blame it on the limitations of the size of the off cuts and not my poor measuring skills :P Making mistakes and learning lessons every day!

I drilled out the hole in the actuator from M6 to M8 as it kept bending the M6 bolts.

It can now successfully self right with just the front bars (not been able to test it with the main lifting bar yet, hoping it will self right like Biohazard did back in '96).

Actually have a question, is there a better way of attaching the armour rather than screws? Or will the screws be adequate?

And that's it for the moment, should be getting more ally bar in the post tomorrow so will be able to make the other arms of the lifter.

Here's some photos for your viewing pleasure

**plargen** · 24th June 2013, 16:42

dependent on the thickness of wood you can use threaded inserts you can get m3 to m10

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-x-13mm-Unheaded-Hex-Drive-Screw-In-Threaded-Inserts-For-Wood-Type-E-20-Pc-/270978890726?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies _Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item3f1799bbe6

**ChrisKazoo** · 24th June 2013, 17:15

Originally Posted by plargen

dependent on the thickness of wood you can use threaded inserts you can get m3 to m10

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-x-13mm-Unheaded-Hex-Drive-Screw-In-Threaded-Inserts-For-Wood-Type-E-20-Pc-/270978890726?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies _Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item3f1799bbe6

Ooh thanks Plargen (sorry not sure of your real name lol). Would these be suitable for HDPE as well?

**plargen** · 24th June 2013, 18:00

i use the m6 version to bolt my motor mounts in and there 20mm thick hdpe

**TeamPsyclone** · 24th June 2013, 18:01

From what I've heard from another forum, they tend to be pulled from the HDPE, for some reason or another. I'll try and dig it back up. Might just be vs spinners, though, it was a little while ago. (And if I can't find it, just look for some of the stronger inserts, I feel I'll be using them, as the caps on M8 Bolts aren't amazing for ground clearance.)

**plargen** · 24th June 2013, 18:23

ah there are other types the 1 that i have found that seems to work best are the 1s that look like a screw thread on the out side , the deeper the blades the better the grip in the materials the 1s that seem to pull out are a push/ hammer in version

these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-x-23mm-...item416c45366d

**TeamPsyclone** · 24th June 2013, 18:48

Ah, I see. A bit ironic, with the spear shape of the hammer ones, but I'd prefer the others anyway. Gives some space, and makes things flatter. And neater.