Are roll over bars effective, obviously with the right shape body, or is it still reasonably easy to get stranded? I'm guessing battery weight and body shape makes all the difference. I wondered if any feathers have used this to good effect?
Tried it. Didn't work well
Did it not work ever? If it worked once, it's technically worth it, I guess.Originally Posted by typhoon_driver
If the right shape, they *should* work in the right conditions. In any case, though, they're cumbersome. You can probably try some scale models to see what works best and use any results to aid in deciding whether it's worth it at full scale.
Had very mixed results with roll bars. They saved me on a few occasions, and cost me battles on others. A lot will depend on the shape, as my roll hoops would only work at certain angles. Getting roll hoops that recover your robot from all angles and positions will be difficult without compromising the look of your robot (i.e. not being able to see it for all the abstract bits of plastic/metal).
What I learned from them was do away with the need for them in the design stage. Instead design your robot to work inverted, or to have a self-righter incorporated (usually comes free with flippers/axes) so that you don't have to fall back on retrospective fixes.
An instance when they worked: (1:24ish)
And when they didn't:
Okypokes, I'll stay away from one. I keep coming up with shapes that are quite tall and boxy to fit all the stuff in I want but then wouldn't be able to make it invert-able. I think a self-righter incorporated as part of the weapon is the future.
Well I use the 124mm banebots wheels in boner to get it invertible. It puts more stress on drill motors etc but as long as you have an all metal gearbox you should be fine.
That's cool bigger wheels is something I hadn't really looked into, that warrants exploration for stuff like bane bots wheels.
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