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Thread: Couple of questions

  1. #1

  2. #2
    To the first point, I think 10A is maybe a bit of a push for 2 drills, although I suppose it depends, what sort of weight is K9? I don't think i'd fancy risking blowing the ESC up.

    Second question, what type of controller is it? There may be a way to deactivate the BEC on the controller which would make it easier to reactivate if you wanted to use it elsewhere. I've never had any issue with having 2 BECs connected up but if you really need it off I think you only need the signal wire going into the receiver (so red and black can be cut) but i'd double check that.

    Hope that helps.

  3. #3
    I can't help on the BEC front but I'd be wary of running 2 drills on 10 amps. A drill may pull upwards of 10a at stall. For combat I'd be wary of even a single drill with a 10a ESC. Then again, this is likely to be far more relaxed than combat.

    People run the 25a Sabertooth model for 2 drills quite often.

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    Depends on what weight he is too. Anything close to a FW and I don't think i'd waste the £35-50 of magic smoke thats going to come out. On top of that, you probably don't want to be doing maintenance on a non combat machine after every event you attend, which you will have to do if you cook a Sabertooth. So if I were you, i'd over spec it. Presumably it'll run for more than 3mins at a time too, unlike our FWs so the heat can build up more than it would in our FWs that run Sabertooth's.

    You could do that with the head, but you couldn't reverse it, you could use a servo and 2 switches though and that would do the job for cheaper than a battleswitch would and you could move the head in both directions. I saw a link to that method recently somewhere, although I didn't click on it. I could take a photo of the drive system from Rover if the link can't be found though as it uses the exact same thing.

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  7. #7
    Max's Avatar
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    You could add 10 amp fuses and test it, if they blow then it's only 50p worth of fuses gone rather than the whole sabertooth

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    Ahh ok, battleswitch should be ok then as I presume the head isn't too heavy so won't draw more than the battleswitch is rated for (10A I think).

    Its current that would kill it, but the current is what generates the heat so kind of yeah and a fan probably couldn't cool it enough, but i'm just presuming there. For the type of robot it is I personally would put an controller in there that would stay cool if I ran it for 12hrs at a time without the need for any additional heat sinks or fans as it would cut down a whole host of problems that you'll encounter.

    Assuming that you'd be buying a battleswitch you could always spend a bit more and buy something like a Scorpion XXL or BotBitz 25 or 85A (or a host of others) and use the Sabertooth on the head and new controller on the 4WD system?

  9. #9

  10. #10
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