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Thread: Team Eventorizon: Build Diary

  1. #351
    Quote Originally Posted by blazerbotics View Post
    Maplin do grommets in packs of 10. I would say you need an LED on the weapon side as well if they're 2 independent systems.
    Thanks Alan! I will see what they have.

    As for the LED on the weapon side, How do other people add an LED to a 42V system. Conker 3 will be even higher at 50.4V! Every resistor I have tried has burn out either immediately or after a couple of minutes.

  2. #352
    [/QUOTE] Thirdly, as beetles are definitely on the up I have concepted not only a few beetle machines but a beetle arena...

    The arena is around 400kg when built and is 2m x 2m x 1m with 10mm Polycarbonate on every side and a 4mm thick steel floor. Finally there is a 200mm tall 4mm thick kickboard round the edge and a door at either side of the arena. The arena would actually serve as both a Beetle arena but also as a featherweight testing and demonstration area. In the same way you can demo/test a single heavyweight in the RoboChallange arena you could demo/test a single feather in the Beetle arena. There are currently no rules about this and I feel that it is something that aught to be talked about and decided upole.[/QUOTE]
    Sorry to go off topic slightly but why are all the beetle arenas pitless and have no out zones like over an arena wall like current arenas? It would make winning with my beetle flipper near impossible as ill just be flipping stuff for the fun of it whilst a spinners free to rip it up, thoughts?

  3. #353
    Alex: 2, 24v LED's wired in series?

    Calum: I agree there should be at least some manner of hazard, the arena does favour spinners a bit heavily ATM.

  4. #354

  5. #355
    Quote Originally Posted by razerdave View Post
    Alex: 2, 24v LED's wired in series?
    Its been so long since I did electronics... I forgot all about that. But wouldn't the first LED in the system just get burn out?

  6. #356
    I use a regulator like this to run a LED off a high voltage pack: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/switch...ators/7398297/. Just add a small dropping resistor and maybe a capacitor on the output side. I think Recom makes a 1/2 amp regulator in a smaller pack.

  7. #357
    Quote Originally Posted by overkill View Post
    I use a regulator like this to run a LED off a high voltage pack: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/switch...ators/7398297/. Just add a small dropping resistor and maybe a capacitor on the output side. I think Recom makes a 1/2 amp regulator in a smaller pack.
    Looks like that will work for Binky, since she max's at 42V. C3 may need a 2 stage reduction to get to the necessary 12V: One regulator then a resistor.

  8. #358
    Over 42 volts? Why not go straight to a Mr Fusion battery! . Recom do another series up to 72V; search for R-78HB3.3-0.5

  9. #359
    Ok, the current solution is this...

    One of these in each robot so I have a 15V output from the weapon system...
    http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/switch...ators/0416846/
    ...then an in-line resistor to bring the voltage down to 12V.

    Since I need 260mA of power to drive the LED's in Conker 3 I need a 12Ohm 2W resistor (15V Source Voltage, 12V LED Drop and 260mA current required to power all the LED's).

    In Binky I will need 120mA of power so I will need a 27ohm 1W resistor (15V Source Voltage, 12V LED Drop and 120mA current required to power all the LED's)

    Can anyone see an issue with that plan?

  10. #360
    Quote Originally Posted by overkill View Post
    Over 42 volts? Why not go straight to a Mr Fusion battery! . Recom do another series up to 72V; search for R-78HB3.3-0.5
    I found them Thanks for the heads up. Its much easier to do these things when you know what is out there.

    EDIT: Typical... they are out of stock
    Last edited by Eventorizon; 30th March 2014 at 11:58.

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