Team Eventorizon: Build Diary

**tweedermeister** · 26th October 2012, 23:43

I can definitely vouch for the strength of ABS, I've used it in a couple of projects and has proved to be a strong material in all of them, very shock resistant.

**Bodge Job** · 30th October 2012, 16:26

I have never had a problem with sabertooths, I think they are brilliant. Good cut outs etc.

**Eventorizon** · 30th October 2012, 19:47

All the parts have arrived for the ant so after measuring their real dimensions I have been able to create a CAD model...
[attachment=0:26nnwyou]Silicon Antweight.png[/attachment:26nnwyou]
Green Box = 5A Sabertooth
Black Box = Orange Receiver
Blue Box = 180mAh Hyperon 2S Lipo
Motors = 100:1 Metal Gearbox
Wheels = 42x19mm Pololu
Chassis = 3D Printed ABS 2-6mm Thick

The CAD is just to visualise it, I still have all the internal stuff to do and the split line but it gets all the parts in no problem. Now what were all the key things to remember when designing for 3D printing... hmmm...

**webby** · 10th November 2012, 21:14

Looks pretty cool, guessing its a flipper so where's the servo or lifter?

**Eventorizon** · 10th November 2012, 22:06

No weapons, all the weight has gone in the motors for maximum torque and pushing power!

**Eventorizon** · 14th December 2012, 18:50

Finally Progress!

Been so hectic at uni have only just been able to sort out the last few details to get Conker mechanically functional.

First a bit of Binky...
[attachment=2:2pmb50sd]20121213_143310.jpg[/attachment:2pmb50sd]
My first real bit of machine work. Lathed out the core of the 40T pulley to slip in the clutched bearing and then locked it in with 2 3mm grub screws. Then into the bolt which is functioning as the discs axle I put 2 6mm grub screws. This better be as strong as it looks as this is what will be spinning up Binky's disc.

On to Conker and modifying the Blue wheels. To save space I put them on the 'wrong' way round saving about 20mm but they kept fouling on the chassis. To stop this I put in washers but all that did was cause the front bearing to jam up and burn out one of the motors.
[attachment=1:2pmb50sd]20121214_111524.jpg[/attachment:2pmb50sd]
Now I have recessed in a M8 washer so that the wheel tightens onto the lip behind the screw thread, not onto the motor.

Also I have added the bolt that fixes the twin pulleys to the disc itself. The coutersunk bolt hides neatly in the left hand pully and then it tapped into the right with an M8 thread.

But the main event is that the armour has finally been welded up!

[attachment=0:2pmb50sd]20121214_153301.jpg[/attachment:2pmb50sd]
As you can see there is quite a box of oxidisation on the left hand side but most of the welds on the right are untainted. I was able to modify the HDPE under layer so that it wall fits nicely together so the only things left now are the wiring and the top Ti panel.

Quite a bit of detail there but it seemed a shame to waste it

**harry hills** · 14th December 2012, 19:10

oooh that is beautiful, really nice robot you have there.

**Revsmin** · 14th December 2012, 19:16

If you have space issues with 100mm wheels, buy some competition wheels; they're much thinner.

**Eventorizon** · 14th December 2012, 19:23

The wheel width was never really the issue it was just how far they stuck out from the front of the motor. I have considered going to Banebots wheels but that will have to wait. Though I still have yet to drive her like this with the new armour... she may not even run!