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Thread: Team MedBots

  1. #181
    Max's Avatar
    Member

    Thanks Mario, that was really helpful

  2. #182
    Does that hydraulic calculation hold true for C02 pneumatics?

  3. #183
    Quote Originally Posted by Eventorizon
    Does that hydraulic calculation hold true for C02 pneumatics?
    Not by a longshot. Especialy not with CO2, as that has a very erratic behavior concerning liquid-gas-temperature.

  4. #184
    Max's Avatar
    Member

    Hi,
    Would these motors be suitable for a featherweight?
    http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-PDX26.html

    Looking at the stats they seem to be a lot more powerful than gimsons, would they be comparable to a speed 900 powered drive system?

    Although the website says they are suitable fir hobby weights which are only 6kg I think?

  5. #185
    I should imagine they would be perfectly good for FW use. They're a high power 550 size (same scale as Gimsons and cheap drills) motor and gearbox. I doubt they would be on par with a s900 setup, no, but they'd get your robot shifting nicely.

  6. #186
    Look at Cobalt and that is the kind of drive you would get but a bit faster as the motor they fit is a little more powerful and runs at a higher voltage.
    I will be going a similar way with conker eventually.

  7. #187
    Max's Avatar
    Member

    Does anyone know if heating polycarbonate in an oven to bend and shape it, weakens the strength of the polycarbonate? Also will 6mm polycarbonate be enough to stop most axes or crushers?

  8. #188
    Axes, yeah probably. Crusher, no.

    I think Drumroll had a 6mm Polycarb lid last year and it has a big hole where Cobalt went right through. Reinforced with steel now too.

  9. #189
    Max's Avatar
    Member

    Hi,
    I have bought a pair of Bosch 400s for a hw, I know I am suppose to modify the magnets but I can't figure out what I am supposed to do- I read that you have to glue in te magnets and rotate them so that it goes equally fast in both directions but I can't figure out how to rotate the magnets? Also should I be able to just pull out the shaft in the middle with the coil on it- I think you have to to take out the magnets?
    Here is a picture:

    Thanks,
    Max

  10. #190
    You can pull out the rotor, but it requires a lot of force.

    To get the magnets in the neutral position, you'll have to remove magnets and clips. You'll see that the clips have a nook that fits in a slot in the can. And that that slot has 2 brothers Now the nook will be in a lot on the side. By using the one in the middle, you will have put the magnets in neutral position.

    To upgrade the motor to RW capabilities.
    Using a strong glue- araldite was one of the choises- to keep the magnets in place.
    Remove the fan.
    Weld the front plate.

    And keep in mind, overvolting to 24V will cook the motor, unless you have a massive reduction ratio.

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