A 100A fuse would be perfectly fine then![]()
A 100A fuse would be perfectly fine then![]()
I am using Electronize 30A ESC's for the motors and this Lipo...
http://ElectriFlyer.co.uk/gens-ace-4s1p-4000mah-30c/
For the Weapon its a Robochallenge Battle switch linked to a 90A Solidstate relay so its off or full throttle. And this is the Pack...
http://ElectriFlyer.co.uk/gens-ace-6s1p-4000mah-30c/ (Ordered the last one)
Kane it seems that there is lots of protection for the top and base of lipo batteries, but only a fire resistant material for the sides ? so that will be vunerable to peircing and propably made from the thinnest metal possible to save weight, would that be acceptable.
Also the top and bottom of the lipos depends on the orientation of the robot which can change very
fast ! the robot could be damaged on its side of the lipos and then the robot thrown onto its side.
In other words Terry, you want the LiPo's in an armored metal box?
At the end of the day the rules as they are are just to help protect from the most common attacks such as flipper's etc. The top of a robot is usually much stronger than the base, and so are the sides. Batteries are mounted to the base in 95% of the robot's about.
To be totally honest, if a lipo gets smashed in the arena, it cant do anything anyway so the metal base rule is just to help keep risks fairly low in the most vulnerable place of the robot.
I think if a robot is made of metal then the batteries are in a metal box If the robot is plastic then a metal box is required. the elephant in the room as far as safety is concerned are the home made Co2 expansion cylinders that have no certificate.
Exactly craig, at the end of the day it's fairly common sense to what is taking reasonable precautions and whats taking things too far. If you want them in a metal case, go for it, if you have a better way of securing them with some form of metal base underneath them then thats also fine.
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