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Thread: LiPo

  1. #61
    I think those ammendment's clear thing's up well enough.

    Daniel - Your flame thrower may not have melted the polycarb, but many do. It doesnt take much heat to cause problem's. It's not just the physcal melting that ruins polycarb either. It can go very brittle if you heat it with a blow torch or leave it in the sun to get attacked by UV light. You start to find instead of just bouncing off the screens that sometimes they would just split in half. This has happened a few times at other event's.

  2. #62
    I don't mean to appear awkward and it might have already been mentioned (just read the whole topic and I didn't see it) but the metal plate rule change seems to be thinking the robot is built on a base plate design.

    Bitza for instance is built on an exo-skeleton and everything is mounted internally in the centre. It also has 1.6mm Ti armour top and bottom, with the Li-Po secured inside. But under this change it's my understanding Bitza would fail it's tech check?

  3. #63
    That wouldn't be an issue at all, where your lipo is mounted would then be considered the base for this purpose. Effectively anywhere underneath the lipo!

  4. #64

  5. #65
    cliveb's Avatar
    Roboteer

    Quote Originally Posted by kane
    I would propose we amend the rules as following

    7.8.8 Casing
    Batteries must be protected with a suitable baseplate or casing made from a non-flamable metal.
    Is this applicable to all battery types in every weight class or just to Lipo's?
    Team Toon:
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  6. #66
    kane's Avatar
    Roboteer

    Section 7.8 applies specifically to LiPo batteries.
    Kane Aston
    http://www.makerobotics.com

    Co-owner and builder of BEHEMOTH

  7. #67
    cliveb's Avatar
    Roboteer

    Quote Originally Posted by kane
    Section 7.8 applies specifically to LiPo batteries.
    that will teach me to read it properly thanks Kane
    Team Toon:
    Heavyweight UK Champion 2015
    Robot Wars World Annihilator Champion 2015
    Heavyweight Tag Team Champion 2012
    Featherweight UK Champion 2010
    Featherweight Annihilator Champion 2009,2011 & 2014
    Rebel Robots Champion 2009
    Pika Annihilator Champion (Belgium) 2012
    Tanja Trophy Winner 2010
    Team Champions ( Team Barbie) 2011

  8. #68
    What Lithium Cut off's do people use I found this one but it reads that it only does one direction ESC's (see bottom of description)

    http://www.technobotsonline.com/cellshi ... utoff.html

    Also, not quite the same but similar... I am using 2 speed 900's with a Gen's Ace 6S 4000mAh lithium battery to power them, what Amp fuse do I need. Again I have found a possible fuse and holder but do I need the 80A or the 100A?
    The same goes for a 4 Gimson GR-1 motors powered by a Gens Ace 4S 4000mAh lithium pack.

    http://www.technobotsonline.com/maxi-bl ... 30430.html

    http://www.technobotsonline.com/80a-maxi-fuse.html

  9. #69
    Do you have a link to your batteries? Or the C rating of the packs.
    Using Speed 900's i would say 80A-100A would be fine fuse wise, if it's below your packs rating you will be fine, I personally go as low as I can on the fuse without risk of blowing it all the time in a fight.

    On the Low Voltage cut-off side of things, there's a few ways of working it. You can use a LVC as the one you posted just for the weapon as an on/off type thing, but for drive it wont work. I tend to use a Low Voltage alarm with LED and have a red LED on the outside of the robot I can easily see. What drive ESC are you using? Your ESC might already have a jumper on to enable lipo cut-off already. Some such as the sabertooth have this feature.

  10. #70
    The Gens Ace 4000mAh has a 25C cont -50C burst rating.

    Meaning a 200A fuse would be the strongest fitted inside the rules.
    I suggest 150A.
    100A can be reached with 2 Speed 900's on 6S, depending on speedo.

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