hell make if you manufacturer at a reasonable cost (and time cost to yourself) i bet some people would buy them.
hell make if you manufacturer at a reasonable cost (and time cost to yourself) i bet some people would buy them.
The LH M5 die is on its way!
£1400 quid? You sure you didn't order them in gold by accident?
I would definitely buy a few if you made them out of a decent grade bolt, anything has got to be better than the cheap Chinese steel that I assume they ones that come with the drill are made of.
I'll put the gold away and machine them from something else í ½í¸€
Will give it a go when the die arrives and let you all know
I was going to tell the gold joke! I got a couple of spare screws from the German guy, but as a backup for the backup I picked up some lh threaded bar and half height nylock nuts, just in case. Not sure how effective it would be, but it was cheap and might keep me rolling in a pinch.
Last edited by lowndsy; 10th May 2017 at 22:58.
Sorry, im not buying them, not for that cost, but i am machining them and silversoldering nuts on the end, so they would now cost pennies. Any one want any?
I might want some, got any images of them ?
I'd take a few spares please Nat.
Its update time again and first up, another attempt to test drive the bot for the first time. To recap, last time I attempted this, one of the left hand threaded screws sheared after a couple of seconds so I couldn’t go any further. After not being able to find a reason for this, all I have done is made sure the 3/8UNF inserts in the wheels are tight up to the shoulder on the gearbox output shafts. I have put in another L/H screw and tired again……and it works! I got to spend a good amount of time driving it around and getting used to how it handles. The 2 main observations I got from this was firstly, that with so much weight forward of the drive wheels, control is tricky but its hopefully something I can get used to with practice. The second is that driving on concrete was wearing the tread on my tires out very quickly, but at least this is easy to replace!
After this successful test my next job was to complete the armour. It was mainly the left hand side that needed finishing and few panels of HDPE cut and joined soon took care of that. The left side also has access for the link in it along with the power LED which was fitted and tested. Next I was able to fit the return springs for the self-righters. Now they just need the actuation cables fitting for them, but I am waiting on delivery for some crimps. Here is how it looks in its almost finished state:
IMG_20170529_133224814.jpgIMG_20170529_133236734.jpg
The test drive did show up a couple of problems which I have to fix, the first of which was that it lost of couple of bolts, so a quick strip down was required to replace these and make sure everything else is tight. The second of which was an intermittent drive issue on one side due to a damaged motor/gearbox. I modded my spare and swapped it in, I have yet to test it, but hopefully it should be ok.
The final job was a weight check on the scales and as I feared it is slightly overweight. I have a couple of places I can save weight including some light panels on the wedge and top. The other place is a lighter battery. I have a good idea of the amount of energy I’m going to need per 3 minute match now from my driving about tests. After adding a safety margin on to this, I should be able to get a substantially lighter battery if I need to.
Fingers crossed, I’ll be off to an event soon, so I have a couple of questions to make sure I’m fully compliant with all the safety things before I go. The cradle for the robot, I assume a simple wooden frame that holds the drive wheels off the floor would be sufficient for this? Also, the locking bar for the weapon, would something like a sturdy piece of material that fits inside the jaw of the crusher to stop it closing be suitable for this or do I have to have some sort of rod physically inserted through the crusher arm? Thanks for your help.
Al
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