Ceri Jenkins support thread

[psychostorm]

Right, after many failed attempts and a slight two/three year hiatus, I am determined to build and fight a featherweight. So much so I have recently bought new NIMH batteries.

My current stock take is

• Futaba Skysport 6EXA 40Mhz FM radio TX+RX with 3 spare crystals and a tuned aerial.[/*:m:2xw0n1ie]
• An IBC speedo - Well it was high tech at the time![/*:m:2xw0n1ie]
• A large 24V actuator.[/*:m:2xw0n1ie]
• 2*24V gold motors attached to a 3 sided polycarbonate and angle aluminium structure.[/*:m:2xw0n1ie]
• A wooden wedge with steel metal blade. It is roughly the size of a rucksack. Back end lost to time - it could be finished with a bit of woodwork.[/*:m:2xw0n1ie]
• A drive train, formerly belonging to Hornet I believe, with 12V gold motors chain driving blue wheels. It could fit in the wedge but not in polycarbonate shell.[/*:m:2xw0n1ie]
• A cuddly toy![/*:m:2xw0n1ie]
• An Omni wheel.[/*:m:2xw0n1ie]
• 2 removable links[/*:m:2xw0n1ie]

All along with the new acquisition of 10 4300mAh NIMH sub C battery cells, some Sub C copper bars, some heat shrink wrap thingy, a handful of Anderson power poles and a yellow power light.

So things I may need to know.
How to fasten wood for combat?
How to make a battery pack?
How to assemble and solder a power pole?

Regardless of topic, all suggestions welcome. Give up, however, will not be advice taken.

[typhoon_driver]

So thats who I sold those gold motor assemblies to! Lol I couldn't remember who they went to.

Are you planning on entering spinner events or non spinner events would be the next logical question? Spinner events will need a far more substantial chassis but are a lot more fun.

You could use the 24v actuator to make a lifter (4 bar or single hinged) or a crusher.

[psycho_fling]

well block of wood is probably one of the most known fw wooden robots, we use bolts to bolt the sides to the base plate then screw the top on

base is 25mm thick
top is 25mm thick
walls are 50mm thick

it offers good enough protection and is easy to machine etc.

still got the damage on it from hornet

also i would really recommend a crusher for the linear actuator, again i have built one and it does take alot of attempts and working things out but its all good

when soldering cells dont heat them up to much

the power pole just put solder in the tube part of the metal piece then heat it up and push the wire in
then when this is COLD push into the anderson plastic bit get it the right way round otherwise you won't get it in

hope this helps
alex

[psychostorm]

So thats who I sold those gold motor assemblies to! Lol I couldn't remember who they went to.

Not only do I have the drive assembly, Gary - I still have the shoebox you sent them to me in! They're still there. I've only dismantled it once and taken your crimp off the end in order to use power poles.

And as I'm a decent man, if you can mechanically restore the rest of hornet to its 2006 glory. I'll send them back to you!

Are you planning on entering spinner events or non spinner events would be the next logical question? Spinner events will need a far more substantial chassis but are a lot more fun.

Other way round - whether I can enter spinner events would depend on how strong I can make the chassis. Would like to but my masonry is poor.

You could use the 24v actuator to make a lifter (4 bar or single hinged) or a crusher.

Not when it looks like this:

The design's a little awkward with shape like that. Perhaps if I dismantled it for rearrangement?

well block of wood is probably one of the most known fw wooden robots, we use bolts to bolt the sides to the base plate then screw the top on

base is 25mm thick
top is 25mm thick
walls are 50mm thick

it offers good enough protection and is easy to machine etc.

still got the damage on it from hornet

I'm guessing the top is plywood - but what are your sides made out of? It looks to me like a different wood. The wooden chassis I have is 1mm Ply top - was to be updated for thicker - and 10/20mm pine for the sides - the wedge of which is irreplaceable to me as I have no band saw. It'll probably be used as test chassis from now on.

Also I've seen Crumple Zone. Excellent work with that robot Alex but it'll be at least a year of serious slog before I build anything that strong.

[psycho_fling]

nah all ply wood works well very thick

[typhoon_driver]

The wheel units were from hornet 1, my first attempt at a featherweight without the help of team typhoon. Funnily enough I just recently picked up the old hardox chassis I used from Jamie (it went on to be the first incarnation of drumroll).

If you aren't going to use the units for anything then I will gladly take them back. I wouldn't mind being able to reconstruct hornet 1 with a few upgrades and enter it in a comp

[psychostorm]

The wheel units were from hornet 1, my first attempt at a featherweight without the help of team typhoon. Funnily enough I just recently picked up the old hardox chassis I used from Jamie (it went on to be the first incarnation of drumroll).

If you aren't going to use the units for anything then I will gladly take them back. I wouldn't mind being able to reconstruct hornet 1 with a few upgrades and enter it in a comp

There's little I can use them for, Gary. I bought them for a spinner design I had in mind at the time that my construction methods don't allow for. As that got ditched, all other designs required more push than I believed the units to be capable of. and now the weight limit's gone up too. Best thing I can use them for now is as an example of how to build my own beefier ones.

Which brings me onto my next dicing question - How on earth am I to build a drive train for the 24V motors? I can't even affix anything to the motor shaft. I've no access to a pillar drill and no tapping equipment. I can't weld (which believe me is something I wish to do) and haven't a welder.

Oh well, challenges not problems I suppose.

[joey_picus]

Friction drive?

[RogueTwoRobots]

Sell the 24V golds and buy a pair of £7 drill motors out of B&Q?

[psychostorm]

Ok, so I bought Kaiser off Jamie and have been adapting it for my own intents & purposes. Having installed the IBC, both channels 1 and 2 are now resulting in forward motion. Any one perchance know why?