How to stop wheels spinning off their output shafts and Brushless drive

[RogueTwoRobots]

A tip for if you do put threadlock on the reverse thread screws. Sometimes, as you might expect, they're a pain to try and undo with a standard Philips 2 screwdriver when threadlocked, risking chewing the head and rendering the screw buggered (to use a technical term). If you have a cordless drill with a hammer function, use that. Does a great job of breaking the bond and undoing the screw. Saved many a reverse threaded screw with that technique, just make sure to exert as much downward pressure as possible onto the screw (i.e. have your bot on the floor with the screw head pointing up)

[RogueTwoRobots]

And as Ellis said, avoid putting threadlock on the wheel's threads. I used to do this as a backup in case the reverse screw came loose, but it becomes a nightmare if you need to take the wheel off but can't lock up the gearbox for whatever reason. Usually results in butcherment of either the chassis or the wheel, depending on the mounting method used.

[leorcc]

Blue threadlock 242 should be fine. It is the kind that doesn't get rockhard but you can still use a normal tool to loosen them again if need be.

[Danjr1]

Cheers guys, will give it a go for Portsmouth.

[PJ-27]

The reverse head screw doesn't often screw all the way into the output shaft, it'll lock and still protrude ~6mm from the end of the shaft.
To make sure the reserve screw locks against the wheel you either need a nut that much longer or to make up the gap with washers.
Remember flimsy washers will bend in on themselves before you get any meaningful torque on the screw so use beefy ones. Also any left over thread lock from the manufacturer will give the impression of torque, whereas in fact it's just all gummed up in there.
Shaft pins don't work, the punt of torque those gearboxes put out will snap near anything you put through there.

Also +1 what Ellis said, don't forget you have to actually remove the wheels!