If you can fit the linear actuator inside your current box you could look into a sideway lifter. It will offcourse only work if you can get completely under your opponent and will double as a selfrighter to get your wedge back into play.
I've got a claw I fancy selling if you want it?
If you decide on the drum, rather than the drill motor i've got a speed 700 laying around, they're more powerful than your standard drill motor and it has a 5mm shaft that would be a bit more sturdy.
The sideways lifter sounds an interesting one, might have a look at that!
Thanks too for the offers there, I'll let you both know if I manage to design something in to it - what I'm looking for really is cheap, simple and not too heavy since I've got some Speed 900s for drive... I don't mind really if it ends up as more of a novelty than anything, but it'd be nice to at least have something on it!
Did some more work on HardWired II today, and it's not good news.
The machine is an absolute travesty, and I can see it getting wrecked by 90% of the machines in the championships. Dare I say, the only machines it'll stand up to are the horizontal spinners, weirdly.
I'll list the problems as they appeared throughout the day:
The chassis has warped. This is really only cosmetic, and doesn't impact the performance of it thankfully, but it isn't half annoying...
Shovel has a 5mm clearance. Partly to do with the twisted chassis, now fixed, though with a 1mm clearance since the scoop itself isn't flush with the floor, I need a grinder to just adjust slightly but I don't have one or indeed anything to amend with) which means that my robot's main strength, the huge drive motors, won't be much use against anything with a lower scoop, such as the legions of flippers and other rambots. Speaking of which:
The drive motors are exposed, which is a very, very, very, very bad thing. I don't have any spares whatsoever, and due to the way it's designed, it's a choice between having thin armour and invertibility, or thicker armour and no invertibility. I did look into both making the wheels larger and different kinds of armour, but to get the necessary clearance to drive upside I'd need something that was no more than 2mm thick which puts my motors in a very dodgy position. Of course, I could look at a self-righting mechanism but, to follow on the chain of events...
I've run out of budget. That's it, I'm stuck with these parts now to resolve the situation. I can't use the Linacs I bought from Mario because they take 24v, and I don't have the weight or money for a 24v battery. The ONLY solution I have to the srimech problem is to use the drills from HardWired I, but that's pushing it in the space I have now, and bearing in mind that I can't afford any more parts until GSL I don't think it'll be doable. Of course, I could always go with no srimech and thick armour on the top, but I have no zero ground clearance on the front scoop and no srimech which is just a loss waiting to happen.
So yeah, if you draw up against HardWired II, you've got yourself a free win! Extremely frustrated with the whole thing now, and I've still got to buy a LiPo sack (to be within the rules) with approximately £0.00 so that should be fun...
Why don't you use 2mm stainless steel for the top plate?
You could even use 2mm steel over the top then have some thicker hdpe/wood underneath with cutouts round the motors, although this means they are only protected by the steel it will give the top a lot more stiffness and resistance to bending, you just have a slight risk of getting the motors hit by an axe but that's part of the game!
i can bring my angle grinder to gls and you can sort it there if you want
also can you rought round the inner edge of the chassis to put a thicker plate in
Last edited by plargen; 12th March 2014 at 19:25.
The LiPo sack is easely replaced with a tin box, like a breadbox or cookiecan. Even a large tin can with lid will do.
And 2mm 15Mo3 steel is available at the price of a beer...
If I come up against you I won't go crazy with the axe
Just because an actuator is 24v doesn't mean it has to be run on that, I run mine on 18v and it's absolutely fine.
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