If you are keen have a read through http://www.robowars.org/forum/viewto...er=asc&start=0
If you are keen have a read through http://www.robowars.org/forum/viewto...er=asc&start=0
Both escs flashed!
In case anyone else attempts the same I used the kkMulticopter flash tool which was incredibly easy to use, and the key to getting it working was using Zadig (http://zadig.akeo.ie/) to install the correct driver for the USBasp, and when installing the driver I had to select "libusb-win32 (v1.2.6.0)" as the driver. initially I chose the wrong driver and it would not work.
Another top tip that I only spotted after doing the first esc, there is no need to remove the heatsink, just leave it stuck on.
Ok, continuing the theme of nothings ever as easy as it seems:
I've gotta to switch out the broken motors on my Gimsons to new ones but the new ones I've got have the smaller gear on them. Anyone got any advice on switching the gears from one motor to the other? Should I rely on the interference fit or use superglue? Is there a better way than brute force to get the gear off/back on?
Got the gear off the broken motor by heating the gear up with a blow torch, but in the process all the oil/grease in the motor bearings boiled out and caught fire. So don't think it would be great idea to do that to my healthy motor to get it's pinion off. Anyone got any suggestions?
The textbook way is to use a gear puller.
The hobby ones for that size pinion generally suck but do work if you are careful. They are available at many R/C stores and Hobbyking. The one from HK looks better than most.
I have the HK one. Works fine for 1/8 shaft stuff. I have pulled a 5mm bore pinion with it but wouldn't recommend doing so often - it worked but the threads began to fold.
If I use these bearings for my drum are they likely to just explode on impact?
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p15...duct_info.html
I would go for a self aligning double row bearing e.g.
http://bearingsdirect.com/22200-seri...-25x52x18.html
Wouldn't bother with the fancy bearings. The ones you linked should be fine and get the job done. Sure they may need replacing after an event or two but having a spare in the toolbox isn't going to break the bank.
It always seems to be the shaft that ends up going on drums or the drum itself rather than the bearings.
2 pneumatic questions:
1) Can a 3/2 valve be used 'backwards' so that a gas supply can be connected to one side then be switched to supply either one of two rams? (Obviously the gas wouldn't be dumped after an activation of either ram but this isn't a problem)
2) Does anyone know of an affordable 3/2 valve rated for full pressure (ie at least 1000psi)?
Thanks!
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