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Thread: New HW design - Omni Wheels and 30kW spinner

  1. #41
    A piece of hardox 750*750*40 weights 178 kg, and with a kilo-price of hardox being around £3 you're talking up £600.

  2. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by maddox10 View Post
    A piece of hardox 750*750*40 weights 178 kg, and with a kilo-price of hardox being around £3 you're talking up £600.
    OK, so getting some more parts in the middle should significantly decrease the per part price.

  3. #43
    Or the other option would be to do what we did with the middle weight typhoon and either salvage or purchase a piece of metal pipe with roughly the right dimensions and weld some hardox teeth onto it.

  4. #44
    We want to make some kind of spinner protection for our bearing system, so can probably use a lot of the middle for that.

    Have you tried tapping holes?

  5. #45
    Tapping in hardox? Haven't done it but I'm aware that the SSAB website says it's possible. Probably need some taps a bit better than a set from silverline etc.

  6. #46
    You can drill and tap Hardox 450 with good quality HSS tools. But those well be worn out after 1 or maybe 2 uses.

    Hardox 500 forget it, unless you have full hardmetal tools.

  7. #47
    If you tap holes in the ring, you will first need to drill them to the right diameter; waterjetting won't leave a consistently round hole. Like any hard metal, the hole will need to be sized for a lower thread engagement. Saab may have some suggestions, I would guess at 50% or less to save the sap from breaking. Taps designed for hardened steel usually have cobalt and vanadium and an oxide over nitride coating. You will also need a heavy duty cutting oil.

    Update: How about making a tapped steel spacer and pressing that into a hole in the ring? If you are attaching armour to both sides , then it can't pull out.
    Last edited by overkill; 4th September 2016 at 00:24.

  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by overkill View Post
    If you tap holes in the ring, you will first need to drill them to the right diameter; waterjetting won't leave a consistently round hole. Like any hard metal, the hole will need to be sized for a lower thread engagement. Saab may have some suggestions, I would guess at 50% or less to save the sap from breaking. Taps designed for hardened steel usually have cobalt and vanadium and an oxide over nitride coating. You will also need a heavy duty cutting oil.

    Update: How about making a tapped steel spacer and pressing that into a hole in the ring? If you are attaching armour to both sides , then it can't pull out.
    Nice idea! That sounds much easier than tapping the hardox.

    Here is what I have managed to do today.

    Dropped to 35mm hardox, and added some 6082T6 tracks/reinforcement for the skateboard wheels to run on.

    ring assembly.jpg

  9. #49
    Happy to help! In the last CAD render, are the gear teeth cut into the hardox ring? I cant see how the bearings are going to run on the ring's ID if it has teeth cut into it.

  10. #50
    Here is an alternative bearing arrangement that I'd like some feedback on:



    It uses a pair of 30205 tapered roller bearings, which are very common & cheap. They are enclosed in a stepped roller that distributes force from the ring and keeps them aligned. here are the pros & cons compared to having separate vertical & horizontal bearings

    PRO:
    * Half as many bearings to mount & maintain.
    * The bot can have a lower over-all hight, which offsets the weight of the rollers.
    * The armour above the ring can be lower, which offsets the weight of the rollers.
    * The ring is much lower, which is more effective against most bots and harder for vertical spinners to damage.
    * Less (or no) armour needed under the ring.

    CON:
    * Increased friction between the ring and the lower shoulder of the roller.
    * Might be more complex to assemble.
    * The rollers might increase the over-all weight unless the smaller side armour and fewer bearings & their supports offset the roller weight.

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