Similar to Nick said, however I tend to drill a through hole and then get a bolt with a straight shank to push through with a nut on the other side. It takes a lot of the stress out of the shaft that tapping puts in.
ready to kick ass and chew bubble gum...
And I'm all out of gum
On a side note Hatchet broke itself, the troublesome grub screw that I thought I had fixed decided it would carry on turning on the shaft regardless of how tight it was and has just cut a massive gouge all the way round. I'm working on trying to have the sprocket welded on but that may have to wait a while, the axe is out of commission for now though.
That's a shame, weld the pinion on and it'll sort it.
Or upgrade to a Magmotor. That would also work...
You're really pushing that Magmotor aha, I've ordered a 350w scooter motor instead of 300 for a bit more power though, a welded on pinion should hold.
Keyway?
The new motor shaft is threaded with a flat, would cutting a keyway in the sprocket and then tightening a nut on the end of the shaft to stop it slipping off hold do you think?
Weld the end and be done with it
Did you get one of those geared 350w motors? I recall that style of shaft on them. They have a lot of power but be careful as they are low inductance motors.
No it's not one of the geared ones just the normal mahoosive motor, I think I will just weld the pinion on if I can get it done, seems the least hassle.
Hatchet's all up and running again after the whole *grubscrew eating the motor shaft* thing, had the sprocket welded onto a new motor (350w this time instead of 300) and that seems to have sorted it. Managed a little video, just to clear it up the axe doesn't actually hit the floor because it's travel is stopped by the front bulkhead about 5mm from the ground. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=346043228929766
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