Diagonal 2wd might not work for my design actually. I'll just have the wheels poking through the angled sides.
Does this look like a suitable battery for Torrent?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=34271
I've got 2.2 amp-hour, 3S batteries with a 25 to 35 C discharge, so that should be around 55 amps at 25 C per battery.
The (4S)battery which you found can produce around 53 amps at 20 C.
it should be ok for for running 2 motors just make sure u have a fuse rated at half the peak amp
i use these batteries http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...%20lipo%20nano
they seem to do the job quite nicely
So, after three months of almost no real progress, time for a parts list. Please point out any flaws or recommend any good, cheaper alternatives:
Motors: 2x Argos 12V drill motors
Battery pack: Turnigy 2650mah 4S LiPo with 20C constant and 30C burst
Speed Controllers: 2x BotBitz TZ85a
Tx and RX: Spectrum DX5e (but also curious about trigger transmitters)
Armour: 10mm HDPE shell with 12mm HDPE bulkheads
Other: 125mm diameter RoboChallenge blue wheels
2 or 3mm aluminium to protect the battery
Sound reasonable?
I don't think robochallenge do 125mm wheels with nut inserts which you need to screw it onto your drill motor- better to go with 100mm wheels or else make your own.
They take ages to come, too. I know they're busy, but it's a pain. You can make custom mounts (Bar of hdpe, screwed onto motor shaft), or use nut inserts for whatever wheels, I'm using stabilizer wheels atm.
Last edited by TeamPsyclone; 7th July 2013 at 16:56.
No, RC don't do 125mm wheels with the inserts, but it can't bee to difficult to put them in myself? And anyway, as Josh said, I can make my own if need be. I have all the time in the world though (it's taken me long enough to decide what parts I'm having), so the wait shouldn't be a problem.
i use the trigger tx on both my present robots (DX3e and a losi) the main benefit i found is that you can tune the steering to get a strait line and slow the steering down so you don't over steer, but i only really need it as they do about 8-9mphOriginally Posted by MudnuK
If I'm right, the reason RC don't do the 125mm blue/red wheels with nut inserts is because the bore of the plain wheel is 15mm, which is too large to get a nut pressed in and 'latched' onto the plastic; most likely the nut would work itself loose and the wheel would come off. When I've bought 125mm wheels from them in the past, they've been a different kind - black, with a 12mm bore, which is more suitable - but the wheel material isn't great, it's quite shiny and hard and doesn't hold up against the blue/red competition wheels.
The best way to get 125mm wheels with nut inserts will be to make them yourself. You could just cut circles of HDPE and melt a nut into the middle, but since HDPE is quite soft, it might not be the sturdiest connection. I've got a strip of steel with the nut welded on the middle, and a couple of bolts at the ends to bolt the wheels on to (similar to the method Josh described) and this seems to work well. Also means you can bolt on different diameters of wheels if you feel you need more speed or torque.
Sorry I've not been active for a while - nerves crept up on me again. My lack of experience really is a pain, especially as I hate to seem ignorant, even though I know you guys will be supportive. Still, I'm determined to prove that you can go from nothing and end up with a featherweight. Yes, I probably should build an antweight first, but they just aren't quite the same (no offense to antweight builders). I've finally taken the sensible choice to go for some cheaper parts, as I simply couldn't afford making a robot just to have it break. Therefore I'm switching to some more budget parts.
I'm going to switch to the far cheaper ETRONIX EX4G Tx and Rx, as I don't need a fifth weapon channel yet. I'm also looking for cheaper speed controllers. I always prefer to turn to experience rather than research (not that I haven't had a look), so any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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