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Thread: Lithium cell tests

  1. #1

  2. #2
    Ive got to admit, i was abit jubious about these cells when i was first told about them but they seem amasing!
    I use lithium polymers in my featherweight, but the safety factor on these cells seems FAR superior. For the 70A continous and 120A burst i think John mentioned, they are well worth a serious look into. Seriously light too considering they are asolid state cell.

  3. #3
    Weve had one robot over here in Australia running A123 cells for a few events now and they have proven to be quite the performer while maintaining safety. They are great and a few builders over here are shifting to them, including myself, who has just purchased 20 cells

  4. #4

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    Most of them use Dewalt 36V packs and open these up. Its the cheapest way to find these cells.

  6. #6
    stu's Avatar
    Member

    Cant wait to see how they preform in a battle. They seem like the dream battery.

    Mr Stu

  7. #7
    http://www.slkelectronics.com/DeWalt/packs.htmhttp://www.slkelectronics.com/DeWalt/packs.htm

    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=587606

    How to take them to bits

    (Message edited by typhoon_driver on April 17, 2007)

  8. #8
    Hi John,

    Ive been ebay whoring them from the USA. I currently dont have the cells in my possession (shipping is a pain ) Roughly cost me AUD$250 for 20 cells. So AUD$12.50/Cell.

    I can share some information from discussion with Trent Ellis, the aussie builder running them at the moment.

    The best place to find all the information is here: http://robowars.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=901http://robowars.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=901 This is Trents build thread. There is a lot of information over the span of 140 posts. With a fair few pictures of the A123 in questions. Ill just briefly remark about them here :-)

    Trent built 7 cells packs for Eleanor to run the Dewalt 18v Team Delta kits on 23.1v. He left them mainly in their original state, using the factory tabs and structure. He also added a 9-pin D plug (Serial Connector) and wired them up to each cell so he could run his Blinky balancer through the packs after events.

    http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/trentellis/IMG_0024.jpghttp://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...s/IMG_0024.jpg Shows them all shrinkd up and ready for combat.

    Personally, when I get my cells, Ill be looking at making a solderless battery design. Previously I have built my own intercooler battle packs, but this time I want to make them solderless and will clamp the packs together. This way I can make/break packs relatively quickly.

    One issue we did notice with the A123 cells is, they will charge fast, IF they are kept cool. Trent had two packs at RoboWars 4, but one was damaged in a fight (Reason unknown, Trent hasnt pulled it apart yet, he thinks a connection came loose though) and he had to resort to using the same pack repeatedly. Each battle this pack came out pretty hot and he was only able to get 70-80% back into it in the 30mins between battles. We even tried my Triton2 cranked at 7amps through the LipoDaptor+ (From SLK Electronics and now called Daptor) but we couldnt force the amps into them.

    They have proven to be very safe, no cell venting, no leaks, no swelling and no fires. I think the Dewalts are a pretty tough test for them, as we have seen Glen Roses King Cobra kill a few of its 2400 NiCD Packs from thermal abuse

    If you have a bit of time John, join the RoboWars.org forums, a few of the UK guys have joined us and it would be an honor to have yourself join us in our discussions

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  10. #10
    John, I have a Shulze Chameleon capable of charging 36V packs, how would i charge the A123s with it then?

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