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Thread: My first beetleweight build - some newb questions to follow!

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    Ocracoke's Avatar
    Team Kaizen

    Hey there, welcome to the forum!

    Is HDPE a good choice for the top and bottom plates of a spinner? I had planned on using 5mm but now doubting myself as its not something ive used before. If not, what materials are people using?
    So long as the internal structure of the robot is solid, there is no reason why this wouldn't work. I use 4mm polycarbonate and 3mm HDPE on one of my Beetleweights. I will however note that spinners can be quite dangerous, especially if they go wrong (which I am sure you can appreciate). Just getting a combat robot to survive in the arena for 3 minutes is a victory in of itself! :P

    Whats the best "link" or switch to use and whats allowed as the rules seem a bit vague.
    I use an XT60 link in one of my Beetleweights but I've seen folks use XT30s. So long as the link is going to support the amount of amperage that is going through the wiring and works as a link, any sort of removable is normally OK.

    Is there a reason why 868 MHz and 915 MHz are not allowed for robot control?
    I can't comment on why these specific frequencies (I don't know the reason for this) are not allowed but the 2.4GHz frequency avoids clashes quite happily, a good thing given the number of competitors that could be at any event.
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Lafiel, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

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    Ocracoke's Avatar
    Team Kaizen

    I have xt60 connectors and so could use them. Does it have to be able to be removed by hand? Does it have to protrude from the bot? Anyone have a pic of one in use?
    Yes, it must be removed by hand (no tools allowed) and yes, it can protrude from the bot though in that instance, I typically have them on the top of the robot. If you recess the connector in a little further into the robot, that will help with the loop of wire not being as exposed.
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Lafiel, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

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    Mr Manuva27
    Guest
    Hi Blair,

    Welcome to the forum! Probably not as useful if you are planning on going brushless, but Bristol Bot Builders have an excellent list of commonly used parts for Ants, Beetles and Feathers. Could possibly be of use to you?

    https://bristolbotbuilders.com/parts.html

  7. #7
    Redirect Left
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by beardyblair View Post
    I have xt60 connectors and so could use them. Does it have to be able to be removed by hand? Does it have to protrude from the bot? Anyone have a pic of one in use?
    As long as it protrudes enough to be readily accessible, then you're fine. I use XT60s for the link, and for most connections except brushless motors i use for weapons, as these are generally 3 cables instead of the 2 XT60 has. here's a demo of one of my links in one of my bots, the bolt incase you're wondering is just the safety brace for the spinning part (i use something slightly less ridiculous looking now). Do note the size of the loop on this link is slightly excessive, due to my own paranoia of not wanting to force an arena martial to have to get too close to the spinning bit if at all possible.
    Make sure your chosen pair of connectors aren't too loose, as connectors can vary in tightness, you don't want a pair of connectors that will come loose during a fight, it happens quite often, especially in spinners and their wild throwing everything about! a brand new pair are usually tighter than a set that's been used a few times, i tend to redo my links after they get too used and loose.

    nebula.jpg
    Last edited by Redirect Left; 24th September 2019 at 01:23.

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    Yeah, spent some time today updating my spreadsheet as I get further into the CAD design. Trying to account for every nut, bolt, washer, wire, shim, spacer and belt. Electrics wise I think I have all my weights. I have done a bit of weight saving by cutting pockets into some of the internal areas and non-critical frame sections. I have entered the material properties into CAD and am at about 180g for the top and bottom frame parts and 190g for the main chassis.

    Weapon wise I have sent off to have the blade (and spares) cut. Once I have these weights I will then be in a position to finalise a few of the other parts and decide if I will have to print them of if I can mill them on the 5-axis.

    To save a bit of weight and combine a lot of the circuitry I have worked with my business partner today and come up with a main board that will house a number of the safety features and handle power management and regulation. She normally spends her time making flight controllers and complicated control systems for our UAV's and other robotic projects. This has got her interest though as one of our company goals was to enter robot wars. This is hopefully the first step towards that goal. Whatever she finalises on will be over specced, redundant and as light as possible. Ill show all after the first fight.


    Im really enjoying this so far and already have a few ideas for another beetlewight or two.

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