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Thread: Project Squirrel

  1. #21
    I'd say they would work relatively okay for a featherweight. They were used very frequently a while ago, and they used very similar motors. I just wouldn't run them on 18v. There are better ESCs but given the lead time of feather2s, and that they cost the same as one Botbitz controller and half the price of a scorpion, their advantages outweigh their shortcomings.

  2. #22
    12A per side is on the low end of handling capability for featherweights but it would probably manage. I've never used Sabretooth controllers (and never will) but I ran a 2WD drill drive robot on a Scorpion XL for several years - they're also 12A per side - and it coped fine. It does have current limiting, so if your motors try to draw too much current, the speed controller will prevent them from doing so rather than blowing up. Best thing to do though is test it out in practice once you've got a functioning drive setup. Run it for a few minutes at a time to get a feel for it and see how it copes.
    Jamie McHarg
    RogueTwo Robots
    http://www.rogue-two-robots.vze.com

    With great power, comes great reliability.

  3. #23
    Well if that's the case I would've gotten myself the 25A instead, haha. Thank you Theo and thank you Jamie for the insight. If it doesn't really work that well, then I can at least use it for... like a distraction bot just for silliness, I guess, and I'll have to dive back into the wallet for the 25A one.

    So with that out of the way, I'm just waiting for the HDPE, then I'll make a list of what else to buy.

  4. #24
    I think Antazz is/was selling one for £60. I saw it in an old for sale thread (about a year old by now) but it didn't say it was sold.
    Last edited by Theo; 11th June 2017 at 16:26.

  5. #25

  6. #26
    I may have to look into that, thank you Theo, and thank you for the additional information Alex. I was planning to put it into a cheap, small Tupperware box with holes drilled out for the wiring to go through and such, and use maybe a couple of rubber washers to keep it steady and not shake itself apart when other robots smack into it.

    Aaaand unfortunately I have to go back to asking questions about batteries... again. But instead of it being the batteries itself, the questions are for the chargers.

    I found this thing from hobbyking, and I'm just wondering if that'll charge up say... this battery? Or are there any other battery/battery charger combos that're cheaper and get the job done just as well? Because I don't want to buy them and find out that they're utter... well, you know, haha.

  7. #27
    Al_'s Avatar
    Roboteer

    I have the Accucell T100 charging that exact battery and a couple of other 5S packs. Not used it lots yet, but no trouble so far.

  8. #28
    I just realised that the charger that I found is for 4 cell batteries... and the zippy's a 5 cell. Almost shot myself in the foot there.

    So I'm still looking for a charger/balancer. There's one by Overlander that's around £45, so I could end up buying 2 of those so I can charge said batteries... And I tried looking up what Alan said about the Accucell t100 and it looks a little sketchy... Does anyone have any recommendations/thoughts upon this?

  9. #29
    So I looked up some reviews on the Overlander charger, and suffice to say that a lot of people say that it's a good one. And I spied one that was about £5-£10 cheaper, so that's good at least. So I bought two of them, along with 2 Zippy 5 cell LiPos, a pack of EC3 couples, 2 LiPo bags, and 2 metres of red and black 14AWG RC wiring, along with a cheap Hobbyking 4 channel RC controller with receiver. All that's left are screws (would chunky wood screws work with 15mm HDPE? I can't remember), a soldering iron, grub screws, a multimeter, and some good ol' fashioned elbow grease.

    Only question is... how thick should the countersunk wood screws be? And is it possible to get them from B&Q? Or would it be better to just find better ones somewhere else? Same question goes with the Grub Screws.

  10. #30
    I recommend cross nuts (sometimes called cross dowels) over wood screws:



    These are impossible to rip out until the plastic itself breaks and unlike wood screws, the thread doesn't wear out if you have to disassemble them.

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