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Thread: Tashic's Robots

  1. #11

  2. #12

  3. #13
    Interested to know what prices you were quoted for gr5, 4mm thick Ti

  4. #14
    Same here, it is great to have Titanium for certain key components which need to stay rigid and straight like motor mounts.

    As for thickness's here are some examples...

    Conker 3 - 3.6mm Grade 5 base and top armour to stop axes and spinners.

    Little Hitter 3 - 3mm G5 front and 1.5mm G5 sides capable of surviving the most powerful spinners, just.

    Mr Mangle - 4-6mm G5 welded unibody, incredibly strong and rigid but exposed top.

    Binky - All armour and Base plate 2mm Grade 2. Slopped and able to deflect most blows, can be bend back into shape.

    Beauty (1- - Tubular titanium exoskeleton design, can survive spinners but welds break eventually.

    It all depends on what you want to do with it. Some Beetles and ants use it as scoops. If its a light event, even with spinners then 1mm of G5 may be enough but if you wanted to come here you may need at least 2mm depending on the design.

  5. #15

  6. #16
    Grade 2 titanium will be fine for non-spinner battles, but in truth you needn't use titanium unless it's to save weight. Steels will do for non-spinner events just fine.

    If you have a wheel on each motor, I wouldn't recommend connecting the wheels by a belt or similar. Mechanically connecting motors can cause issues, in that two motors are never quite identical and so they struggle against each other. It would probably be fine but I can't see it benefiting the robot, in fact it may make the drive less efficient and you'd lose performance.

    Rollerskate wheels and such are viable, I'm sure. Fairly robust, perhaps a little lacking in grip as the rubber will be hard. But as you say the main problem is connecting them to your drive motors. Behind those bearings will be a large, possibly odd shaped (although likely smooth) bore, which is difficult to attach to.

    Also, nice work on the ant! The armour looks great, I love the overlapping sides.

  7. #17
    Here's the finished ant.
    Only a very small amount of the chassis is plastic and is very asymmetric because it is all hand made by me.
    I had to make lot's of holes and cut some parts of the frame, but I managed to remove 8 gr and now it weights 149.6 gr.
    The name is F2, because is the successor of F1:
    Most of the parts of F2 is from F1.
    I also still have the chassis of the ants that I took appart!

  8. #18

  9. #19
    A lot of Heavyweights use go kart tyres so yes they would be usable

  10. #20
    Hi all, I did a search on google for the weapon motor that Mrsam suggested and I found this:
    At what voltage should run it?
    Is 18V enough, as I intend to use 4 12V drill motors.
    Also what's the best ESCs for the drive motors?
    And for the axe can I use the servo and microswitches system or I need a esc for that too?
    As for the HDPE for the chassis, where you buy it from?


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