Team Pasty Build Diary: Loki

[ChrisKazoo]

Reversing the channel should do exacly the same thing as reversing the motor wires, but if ch.rev. isn't working you can do that.
I don't know how to mixing is done on your TX, but in mine i have to assign 3 pairs of master/slave channels and say their percentages, like:

Master: ch1 %:100
Slave: ch2 %:-100

I had to mess around with rev. and +/-% to get it right.

I don't think the DX5E can do that Mine just has switches for mix on/off and then you can reverse the channels

[Merkabah_PT]

Maybe you can find some info on these links:

http://www.rcpowers.com/community/th...bilities.9387/

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=943411
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1273639


From what i read on the third link, there is a known problem while using the mixing and reversing, when you reverse on channel, the TX automatically reverses both.

Hope you can find a solution.

[RogueTwoRobots]

If I remember rightly (and I may not since I don't own a DX5e), the built-in mixing on the DX5e limits the elevator channel to around 60% so your robot will seem unusually slow when going forward and back, but will turn left and right at the correct speed. It's not something that's adjustable as far as I'm aware so your best bet would be to leave it turned off and use an external mixer if you want single stick driving. Although watch what external mixer you buy as some of them also have fwd/bck limits.

[PJ-27]

The DX5E has half throws on all mixed channels I find. Get a GWS mixer, they don't limit and don't mess up your failsafing like the other cheap ones.

Sometimes you do just need to switch the wires on the motor, swapping functions on the Tx will only get you so far and the DX5E is pretty limited.

[ChrisKazoo]

Thanks for all the info regarding mixing on the DX5E. It would appear that this model has a fault so can't use the in built mixing, bummer.

Received the new batteries today so got them all in nicely and now the robot really goes!

Also inserted a removable link, made the front of the chassis angled and gave it some aluminium armour.
[attachment=1:3oj6tw6o]2013-03-06 15.14.31.jpg[/attachment:3oj6tw6o]
[attachment=0:3oj6tw6o]2013-03-06 15.15.16.jpg[/attachment:3oj6tw6o]


Am having some problems though. When on it will intermittently move on it's own, and it seems like sometimes the wheels keep going for a tiny bit after letting go of the stick.

Could the problem be down to the cheap mixer? I checked the failsafing after what PJ-27 said and it has messed it up.

I took it outside for a test run and managed to drive it into the curb and bend a corner of the aluminium so one of the wheels was off the ground

Could someone tell me where I would wire in a power LED?


Cheers guys

[Merkabah_PT]

Try to remove the mixer, if the problem dissapers, blame the cheap mixer.

The easiest way to add a power on led is by connecting it to one of the channels on the RX, but you will need to use a resistor too. Use this calculator to find what resistor you need. http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=zz.led...tor.calculator

Are you using the two red wires from the ESC's? If you are, remove one from the RX connector and use thermal tubing or electric tape to keep it from causing short-circuits.

BTW, way waste alu making armor to a mockup?

[ChrisKazoo]

Removed the mixer and yea seems to have irradicated the problems I was having, ordered a GWS mixer now.

Good idea for the LED, I have a 12 V LED so thinking the resistor won't be necessary?


Yes I was using both the red wires from the ESCs so have removed one of them.

Couple reasons why I wanted to make armour for the mock up, 1) cos I have some spare ally, 2) it'll help visualise the real armour and how it will all fit together etc, and 3) cos I thought it would look cool

Also I'm considering entering it into the arena at Portsmouth to get experience driving it in the context of a battle. Even if the MDF doesn't survive

Thanks for the help

Try to remove the mixer, if the problem dissapers, blame the cheap mixer.

The easiest way to add a power on led is by connecting it to one of the channels on the RX, but you will need to use a resistor too. Use this calculator to find what resistor you need. http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=zz.led...tor.calculator

Are you using the two red wires from the ESC's? If you are, remove one from the RX connector and use thermal tubing or electric tape to keep it from causing short-circuits.

BTW, way waste alu making armor to a mockup?

[Merkabah_PT]

I am sure you can find some one to make a couple of whiteboard fights, against a wedge/rammer or some one with the weapon turned of.

The RX only outputs 5v, so a 12v led will not glow very brightly. Get a couple of regular high brightness 5v leds, or power your 12v one from the main baterry. The resistor you will need will depend on how many volts your battery outputs.

[ChrisKazoo]

Weekend update:

New GWS V-tail mixer came and works brilliantly so mixing is sorted

Cut a piece of aluminium for the top

Added an power on LED, 5V powered from the receiver (thanks for the advice Hugo!)

And that's pretty much it

Here's some pictures:



And a video


It's a bit slidey cos the floor's still covered in bits of ally, and the motors still need lowering a bit to increase the ground clearance (keeps getting beached on the door mat!)

Looking forward to Portsmouth!

[PJ-27]

Those are some very neat straight cuts on the Ali you've got there, what did you use?

I'd be careful putting the LED on the Rx, you don't want to take power away from it since it's your only form of communication with the robot.

Most people put their LED in parallel with the main power block of the robot. Also different colour LEDs have set voltages, a 12v LED is just one with a resistor already built in.