Yes, just need to make a new body for it.
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Yes, just need to make a new body for it.
For next year's Robodojo I'll be making BOB 4 for the full combat fights.
BOB 4 will be an axe bot with interchangeable wedge, snow plough, etc. It'll make a nice back up if the axe breaks in the middle of the fight. This is going to be my first robot with a axe, so it's going to be all trial and error choosing the sprockets, roller chain, steel round bar, etc. I might throw in interchangeable axe heads as well for the fun of it.
Sounds like a major Project Sean, looking forward to see what you come up with.
Sounds good! I'm hoping to graduate to the full combat fights too, look forward to seeing your progress. :)
Any tips on getting that nut off the scooter motor.
Attachment 9353
No matter how hard I try to keep the motor from turning it just wants to turn. Also I'm sure they guled the hut on.
It is kind of, it is in threadlock. I had to get these off for Kaizen before I switched out for something else. I detailed how I got mine off in the build thread for Kaizen here: https://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/thr...l=1#post472505
The nut needed a 19mm socket on mine so I'd start there.
The sprocket is a D shape, if you dont want the sprocket tighten it into a vice or a set of pliers and use a spanner to unscrew the nyloc nut. Otherwise clamp around the sprocket with material to stop it spinning and hold onto the material and use the spanner, or clamp the shaft in a set of maul? grips and undo. it will come undone :)
As above post thats linked :)
Well, I have been using a spanner and pliers to do the job, but the pliers can't seem to get a good grip on it. I'm sure I got a 19mm socket hiding in my Dad's old toolbox, also I need to get a new vice as well, my broke.
If you are still stuck Sean, first make sure the nut is not left hand thread-you can do this
by tracing the exposed thread with your finger nail to make sure you are slackening rather
than tightening.
Invest in a pair or quality snipe nose mole grips to hold the shaft and then use a good spanner
or socket to turn the nut the correct way.
there standard thread, use mole grips, Slip Joint Plie etc to grip the shaft and something to grip the nut.
but you will need to battle hardern the magenets in the scooty, and it suggestable to weld the sporket onto the motor shaft. you know what chain you going to be using ?
The new vice and Dad's olds socket I saved has done the trick, with a bit of force as well.
As for the chain I got this to use
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRANDED-B...72.m2749.l2649
wooh, that some over kill chain there, fm2 using 06b which is used in HW drive, i mean if you already got it then ok but i would look at either t8f chain aka minimotor chain (a bigger 8mm chain 05b sporkets work) or 06b
Well, there's no overkill like overkill. I was looking at 06b as well but I went with the 08b just to be sure the chain doesn't keep break, plus I never built an axe bot before so I'm still learning a bit.
ive not had a chain break nor split in Wanna choppa, and thats had some forces on it. Although not as powerful as some axe bots, its been ok on 06b. but as you have bought it, consider the 06b if you need to save weight!
Well BOB 4 slowly getting there but might have to go in weaponless to save a bit of time and out of fear of breaking my drill press. Just need to finish the rest of the body and the insides for the battery, ESC etc.
Attachment 9364
Well, the driving issue has decide to come back. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to fix it back then at Robodojo and with the Loctite blue I used to keep the wheel from sliding off, I had to cut behind the wheel. From the looks from one of it seems a bit worse than last time.
Attachment 9394
Luckily I still got some length left on the shaft and if it happens again.
But now the next problem is this.
Attachment 9395
Attachment 9396
The screw hole doesn't go all the way in, now I have drill bits for metal but I don't have any tools to make a thread to put a screw in.
A full tool kit is essential if you wish to be a amateur engineer Sean as apposed to a assembler.
You can buy a set of Taps and Dies for around £15 and that would suit well for most re threading
tasks you will encounter.
I'll be getting one at Screw Fix on my way to work. Also, I better get some metal bars to practice on.
If you have never used Taps and Dies before make sure you lubricate the metal before you
start cutting the thread-cutting oil or gell is best.
Only cut in 1/4 turns otherwise you may break the Tap or Die-they are very brittle.
Oh !-very important-turn back 1/4 turn to break off the swarf
otherwise the cutter will jam and get too tight to turn.
Will WD 40 do the trick?
I'd recommend something thicker, like the thread cutting oil that Colin mentioned. WD40 is probably going to be too light for this.
Get yourself some CT90 available from toolstation. Its good stuff i use it on steels and aluminiums when tapping and drilling. Works well for cobolt drills and hardox too.
https://www.toolstation.com/action-c...g-fluid/p61138
Screwfix have an aerosol spray for £6.99, screwfix have the WD-40 brand of cutting fluid.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/wd-40-cut...il-400ml/679gy
Ideally get some of this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PACK-OF-2...0AAOSwx1ReNKuH is a 2 bottle pack, but this is the stuff. This isnt a spray, so its much more economical than spraying generally.
With Robodojo coming back. I've been back working on my robots, I'm going to retire BOB 3 by putting it in full combat, give it a good beating. Right now I'm rebuilding BOB 1 as BOB 1 HD Remix, smaller, more compact, and more importantly, work.
The main problem right now is the locking bar for the lifter, it bends the bar a bit.
https://youtu.be/V19IvrVW_ps
Just shows what a more powerful ESC can do.
Hah, seems like what you have there is a steel bar bender! Look forward to seeing new BOB. Shame to think of BOB3 getting "retired" though, always thought it was a bit of a silent assassin at Robodojo, maybe didn't look as flashy as some but always put on a good show!
Great to see a post from you Sean.
Technically the locking bar should stop the weapon from activating by accident and as
your weapon continues to operate with the bar in place it could fail a tech check.
Common sense says it is probably Okay on a slow moving lifter but to cure any doubt
you might use a stronger bar or mount it lower on the lifter blade to reduce the torque
force on the bar.
I moved the safety bar lower and it worked a bit, I think the camping pegs I was using are made of aluminum, 5mm thick. Will a steel bar be stronger?
Depends on the steel but in general, yes, they are stronger. I tend to use 10mm thick bolts as my locking bar.
Well, that was fun. 3 -2 is not a bad start to the year, even though we're in June now. I seem to have found the main reason why it hasn't been driving straight
Attachment 9875
Easy fix.
On a 4 wheel drive that would cause it not to drive straight for sure-On a 2 wheel drive it
would be virtually impossible to drive straight, I assume that wire is off one drive motor?.
It is.
Well, this season's run of Robodojo for BOB 1 HD remix went well. Finishing 2nd overall and going through 3 or 4 motors, different thicknesses of steel for the lifting wage, making an anti-ogre lord top, getting some tools to do one thing, and a receiver.
One thing I don't think I'll be using again is the spare transmitter and receiver I got
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is rubbish and does not bind to other transmitters and receivers, also it keeps failing the safety check when you turn off the transmitter.
Well Done Sean !
it goes to prove that the more events you attend,the better your chances for points and high ranking
not to mention that not to be sniffed at Prize money for places 1 2 and 3.
I tried with others to help you with the transmitter but it was soon apparent there was a fault with that
transmitter.