Smoothing the wheel guards in will help with spinners if you have weight etc. The right angle will be easy for them to bite.
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Smoothing the wheel guards in will help with spinners if you have weight etc. The right angle will be easy for them to bite.
I'll see what I can do
Although I'm not sure Wolf-E would be used at events with spinners anyway.
something like this?
https://66.media.tumblr.com/4f879d6a...nf23o1_540.png
Yeah or even more so. I just realised you may not even want to fight spinners so it doesn't matter. But if you look here on Beta can you see how it's just one smooth continuous angles and shapes? And how anything nasty trying to get at it would sort of deflect rather than chew? If it helps I can sketch something to show you with regards to your robot when I get home.
http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/...20160517203923
I see what you mean David, if you can do a sketch that might help a lot more although bare in mind that Wolf-E was designed to me made with HPDE with the top and bottom plates/ wedges made out of hopefully a metal material (depending on weight and cost).
Yeah my robots are made from biscuit tins and chopping boards so I'm not really an expert. But after building naff robots since 2012 you do start to pick bits up here and there. I spose what I mean is you don't need angled wedges, just a robot that's sort of all one shape so it's hard to get a bite on lol.
I see
Demo of the 4 cell lipo battery + 12 volt drive motor set up.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/7518bc65...f23o1_1280.png
Added the wheels to Wolf-E, by melting a nut into the bore of the wheels, then threaded it onto the shaft of the drill motors.
Not bad for a first go.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/4fe58945...nf23o1_540.jpg
looking good!
Thanks, I'll thin the base and do a test run with it.
started some wiring, hope it holds.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/9f882af4...nf23o1_540.jpg
well as a failsafe at least it failed safely lol
Could someone show me how they make it easy to insert their removable link into the robot or how they mount the connecter (that the link connects to) to the robot. Because the wire on my link keeps coming undone after a few trys to insert and remove it. it's a xt60 connector.
had a go at mounting the connector for the link. Kinda works could do with suggestions though.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/0b44d557...nf23o1_540.jpg
https://68.media.tumblr.com/b525b0a4...nf23o2_540.jpg
On another note the wire on the link keeps on coming undone on the same side of the connector, how do people grip the link when they remove it? Pull on the wire? or grip the connector?
I think you're supposed to be able to pull on the wire. If it's coming undone, either find a better connector (like the red ones which require you to push the contact into the connector end) or check your solder connections. I suppose you could also try reinforcing it with some tape, but I'd only do that as a last resort.
If you pull off the wire from the connector, the soldering is "not good".
If you can pull the wire appart, it's too thin.
A good solder joint is as strong as the connector or the wire.
I see, guess I'll try a 4th go at soldering the connection.
Yep - I use XT60's with a wire loop. I bought a 100W iron from Maplins (they are cheap). You can get alot of heat into a small area stopping the housing from getting damaged. With XT60 I always tin both the connector and wire.
Also, so you can pump in more heat, you can push a male and female connector together to double your thermal mass. That way when you use the 100W Iron, you are very unlikely to melt the connector itself while you solder; as it will take roughly twice as long to heat up. Its not necessary but I find gives more to hold and gives you a bit more tolerance before you have to stop, let it cool and try again.
Great thing about the 100W irons they dump so much thermal power into the joint the rest of the connector barely gets any time to heat up before the joint is made and you can remove the soldering iron. I've done plenty of solder cup EC5s with minimal thermal distortion.
So moving from removable links to armour, could I get recommendations for armour, I'm looking at around 5mm thick, but I say that with limited understanding.
As far as I've seen, if you're talking Hardox, 5mm is ambitious. My bot has a 4mm scoop and that is completely rigid and feels thicker than you'd think. I think most people have 2-4mm steel or Hardox armour, otherwise it gets very heavy and quite expensive. HDPE you want about 20mm for the sides, 10-ish on top, but since you're doing a wedge you might want a bit thicker, I'm not sure.
2mm hardox won't hold up against spinners for long at all on a featherweight, 4mm gets bent fairly often, but 5mm would probably get bent the same way so id say a 4mm hardox wedge with a spare or two is the best way to go.
With armour its just as much about thickness as it is the angle and how its mounted.
Shock mounting is becoming more common as spinners get even more powerful; there was a time 5mm mild was good enough in a HW, now you couldn't even use that in a FW.
You never want to present a corner for a spinner to peel away at. 90 degree corners are bad, 120 is pretty good, 135 is great. Of course all of that is relative to the shape/design of your robot.
https://66.media.tumblr.com/4f879d6a...nf23o1_540.png
The wheel covers here are great, nice chamfers and nice and thick. The sides of the wedge... not so much. If you extended the HDPE down the side of the robot to prevent spinners peeling up your top and bottom Hardox, that will reduce that issue significantly. If you consider the sides consumable and have spares then you can have a spinner chew on that edge for 3 minutes and the just replace it.
As a first design goes, its pretty good. Well iterated and it looks strong, with internal space for a weapon down the road.
Something like this Alex?
https://68.media.tumblr.com/6af3220b...nf23o1_540.png
https://68.media.tumblr.com/ff38f070...nf23o2_540.png
The first is better. Alex is on about the same as i was, not presenting something for a spinner to chew on i.e a sharp edge.
some good feedback here thanks guys.
melted the nuts into the spare wheels and also sanded down the wheel ready for the tire tread.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/ab6b0a9f...nf23o1_540.jpg
Oh wow how did u melt the nuts in and where did you get them? I've not been brave enough to try yet lol. Is that a cheeky bit of gta going on there :P
I followed this guide by Ellis but without a pillar drill: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcII...cEveUFO_-4neUo
I used a old drill motor shaft fitted into a drill chuck and pressed the heated nut in.
I got my nuts here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1811604491...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
They are 3/8 unf hex nuts.
yes I'm watching a lets play as I work.
Popped over to my local Halfords and got a bike tyre for tread to add to the wheels.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/26bad276...nf23o1_540.jpg
https://68.media.tumblr.com/a90c1e4e...nf23o2_540.jpg
Considering you made them without a pillar drill, how much wobble do the wheels have? I was tempted to do this myself, but wasn't sure how well it'd turn out.